Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25Det Block Coolant Drain Bolt

zoomzoom
 Share

Recommended Posts

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

In an unpleasant face-full-of-coolant fail, I appear to have misplaced the coolant drain bolt, just under one of the oil lines going to the turbo. Can anyone confirm what the thread and pitch is? I tried a 12mm x 1.5 pitch thread, and I think the width is correct but the pitch isnt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399277-rb25det-block-coolant-drain-bolt/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
Posted

Is this on an R33 GTST? Unfortunately I can't give you the details you are after...but...can you tell me how you got to this little sucker - for years I have been draining the radiator only...thanks!

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah sorry i cant help you with it either, but as far as i could tell it was a tapered bolt I think. Go to a wrecker and grab one out of an rb30 or something similar :)

And Peter, if your car doesnt have ABS, it was possible for me to get it from the top with an extension and a knuckle thingy. Its on the rear of the block, just above the turbo water return i think!

I meant to take a picture when i did it as NOONE seems to have ever done it clearly haha, but alas, i forgot :(

Edited by gotRICE?
  • 4 weeks later...
zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry about the late response as I dont get any email updates, though it looks like you have it sorted.

I used a socket > universal joint > 25cm extension beam > breaker bar

Its a pain to get to, but once you get the bolt to move, then just use a smaller socket wrench.

Also for anyones benefit, when you put it back in, remember to use a thread sealant. I used a loctite? branded one designed for sealing water, which sets in an anaerobic environment or by heat.

I should also say that even with the coolant that sprayed everywhere, I got most of the workshop manual specified quantity of coolant out. Draining the radiator by itself doesnt replace much of the coolant.

Edited by zoomzoom
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Yeah just dropping the radiator only gets rid of half the coolant if that. After draining mine and pulling the waterpump off i flooded the garage floor with 4+ litres of green shit. lol

You shouldnt really need any thread tape or sealant on that bolt as it is tapered. So if you dont have any i wouldnt waste your money. But in saying that, if it leaks dont yell at me :P I didnt use it on mine when i took it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...