Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my series 1 engine recently died and while searching for a replacement I've come accross a well priced local series 2 engine.

my question is who much effort is it to swap a series 1 to a series 2 motor, will the s2 loom work with the s1 ecu... any other issues?

(did a search but came up with nada)

any info regarding the swap is appreciated, thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399283-series-1-to-series-2-swap/
Share on other sites

You have to use back the s1 loom,coil packs/harness, afm and complete throttle body with tps....easy peasy

Makes the swap quick as you dont have to change out looms and can save some more money by just buying basically a bare head and block

Never had any probs with ac speed control.

Edited by Don Dada

If it all works leave your existing loom in the car, unplug everything on the engine side and remove the f*cked motor. Replace it with the good motor, swap any sensors/coilpacks that are different, plug everything back in and drink beer while doing skids!

no definetly no skids that's what cause the problem in the first place lol.

ok so the easiest way is use my series one coil packs with the external igniter into the series two, just unplug the engine side of the loom, and swap afms throttle body over (im guessing this fixes the tps issue)

no definetly no skids that's what cause the problem in the first place lol. ok so the easiest way is use my series one coil packs with the external igniter into the series two, just unplug the engine side of the loom, and swap afms throttle body over (im guessing this fixes the tps issue)

Exactly......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...