Jump to content
SAU Community

Will A Rb25Gtt Still Run With No Turbo..?

madmatsmadhouse
 Share

Recommended Posts

madmatsmadhouse Contributor

madmatsmadhouse

Posted
Posted

Iv been thinking about buying another r34 but get a gt-t model. problem is im on me p's still. is it possible to take the turb off and get a new exhaust header built. Would you have to change the ecu.? if so are the wiring looms the same in gt and gt-t models.?

other thought was to buy and drop a n/a motor in the gt-t body and drive that untill im off me p's. then in the mean time i have the gt-t motor to play with. can rebuild it and when im on my opens i can drop it back it.

will the wiring harness be the same though.?

i imagine this would of been answered before.

thanks

mat

adamskill Mentor

adamskill

Posted
Posted

Iv been thinking about buying another r34 but get a gt-t model. problem is im on me p's still. is it possible to take the turb off and get a new exhaust header built. Would you have to change the ecu.? if so are the wiring looms the same in gt and gt-t models.?

other thought was to buy and drop a n/a motor in the gt-t body and drive that untill im off me p's. then in the mean time i have the gt-t motor to play with. can rebuild it and when im on my opens i can drop it back it.

will the wiring harness be the same though.?

i imagine this would of been answered before.

thanks

mat

it has been answered before....

madmatsmadhouse Contributor

madmatsmadhouse

Posted
  • Author
Posted

car will still be illegal to drive on your p's. Will still be registered as a turbo vehicle and the cop is not going to care if you 'took the turbo out'

oh right.. i didnt know this just thought if it had no turb it would be ok haha. definitely no way around it then, gotta wait..

cheers for the info guys.. and yes im new and im still figuring out how to drive this webpage

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

you got me on a good day, so i won't just post things like the above people (normally i would). i'll explain to you why it is a bad idea to pull the turbo off. turbo engines run lower compression than the non turbo versions. this is to account for the extra air being forced in by the turbo. this means that if you pull the turbo off a turbo motor it will make less power than the non turbo version. so what you would end up with is a car making roughly the same power as a hyundai excel (and i'm not joking) but weighs about 300kg more.

as for dropping a natro motor in its place, well as people have said, the car is still registered as a turbo, so no dice. plus the fact that it's a waste of time and money.

madmatsmadhouse Contributor

madmatsmadhouse

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks mad082.. i can see why.. and i didnt think it would ever work but my dad keeps saying it would and i keep telling him why it wont so i asked :D. i also told him it would be much more fuel Hungary due to the less compression in the combustor.

as people have said i dont think i will wast my time.

though.. if the motor was changed to n/a and it had an engineers cert and vic roads had it changed, legally wouldnt this now be a n/a as the n/a motor is now registered to the car.?

the reason im asking is because i wanna get another 34 as my 34 has all the sat nav sh*t and pop up screen in the dash. i want a double din unit in there and the dash to be flat at the top. There is no reason i cant change it i just cant be bothered doing it and cant get a hold of the parts.. so i want to get a 34 that dont have the sat nav option and has the double din and all :D..MY RADIO DONT EVEN WORK.. its the worst

might just try hang out the 12 months and get the tt....awwww

thanks again guys

Edited by madmatsmadhouse
iwanta34gtr Grand Master

iwanta34gtr

Posted
Posted

Talking from personal experience.

It will still run, and will run like sh*t.

Also important to note that the RTA has gotten smarter over the years and will still see the car as a turbo car as they go off the chassis, regardless whether the turbo is still in there or not.

madmatsmadhouse Contributor

madmatsmadhouse

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Talking from personal experience.

It will still run, and will run like sh*t.

Also important to note that the RTA has gotten smarter over the years and will still see the car as a turbo car as they go off the chassis, regardless whether the turbo is still in there or not.

so i should do it the other way and wack the turbo in my n/a :D haha

i would see the motor swaps as a project as 1 would of been something to work on.

and changing the stereo isnt the hard bit its finding the shrouds from other cars thats hard to get

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

pretty sure even going through all the work of changing the motor and getting an engineers cert would still be illegal for other reasons than posted above. i may be wrong, but i have a feeling that replacing the engine with a different one that the car originally came with is classed as an engine mod, which P platers aren't allowed to do

just to clarify what i mean by "different one to what the car came with", replacing a rb25de with another rb25de from the same model car is ok, replacing a rb20de in a r32 with a rb25de from an r33 isn't allowed

madmatsmadhouse Contributor

madmatsmadhouse

Posted
  • Author
Posted

haha :D. is there something in a gtr where you can switch from rwd to awd..? iv seen a thing in a mag once where a 32gtr could do it i think..

i like the rwd :D iv been driving a tx3 turbo awd for the past 2 years. thing grips like rails but just aint as fun. i like the r34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...