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Hi Guys,

I used to own a S15 and Im new to the whole Skyline thing and having a few isses.

  • At highway speed hicas light comes on and steering gets heavy. Have done a wheel aligment and it doesnt seem to happen as much but it still occurs randomly.
  • On the power FC data display the Air Temp seems to rear incorrectly. On a cold moring (15c) the temp will read -10c and when warm will read 20c ish, give or take.
  • Injector duty cycle gets up to 97% under full acceleration on a cold night. Car is only running standard turbos, dump back exhaust and a Power fc, wouldnt think i would be maxing out the 440's just yet. Thinking it could be a issue realted to fuel pressure? :unsure:
  • Randomly the car will still without and notice and wont restart. It has happened twice to me now, once on the way back from willowbank raceway. Was stuck till 3 in the morning :angry: . Only got it started by playing around with the Cas, AFM's, Ignition amplifer and unpluggin the ecu. Problem is too intimitiant that i havent been able to trace down the fault just yet.
  • The knock level on the Power FC hand controller gets over 120 on startup. Will stay under 30 - 35 after clearning max knock after startup.

Any information on these issues will be muchly apreciated. I have tryed doing some research but cannot pin point the sorce of the issues. Will be sending the car for a retune once i sort some of these issues out.

Cheers

Jacob

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Test fuel pump. Could be cause of knock and injector saturation. Start up knock is probably engine noise though - is probably a bit rattly.

Put HICAS into self diagnostic and look for causes. Likely causes include no steering angle sensor (aftermarket steering wheel with incorrect boss kit), power steering fluid leaks, vehicle speed sensor fault (signal comes from the speedo to the ECU and also to the HICAS, ATTESSA etc computers as well - if the signal wire has been stuffed up when the PowerFC was put in, then it could negatively affect all the other systems).

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Test fuel pump. Could be cause of knock and injector saturation.

Not sure about that WRT injector duty. As the injector control is open loop at full power, i would expect it to just run lean if there's not enough fuel to the rail.

CLEAN stock injectors should be ok for around 280kw, but if they're dirty they may have lost a third of their flow, so then you're down to ~187. Stock GTRs make about ~175. Good exhaust, 1 bar and a tune, and you'll probably be more like ~240kw.

tl:dr - might be dirty injectors. But yeah, i'd probably still change fuel filter then check fuel pump before worrying about injectors.

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From what ive been told/seen it actually has R34 GTR injectors which look like they were pruchesed brand new. Must have had a issue with the old ones. Its only running .8 Bar (11psi) so didnt think it would be anywhere near maxing them out just yet. The fuel filter has been changed but the condition of the fuel pump is unknown. Im in the process of putting a Wide band in it to keep a eye on the air fuels but still unsure at this stage. Might change the fuel pump to a Warbro some time during the week.

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As the injector control is open loop at full power, i would expect it to just run lean if there's not enough fuel to the rail.

Valid point. Except that I assumed that he only recently bought this car, that it had been tuned with the PowerFC to compensate for a dud fuel pump. Seemed the most likely thing to me.

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I think the stalling issue may be dud afm's (solder joints).

With the inj duty u really need to get that checked. Although if the afm is playing up it may be related.

With the hicas - if the steering wheel is not perfectly centred when u are on the freeway ie 80+ kph the hicas goes crazy. It happens to me on the dyno if the steering is slightly turned

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It hasnt stalled since i changed the Ignitor module so fingers crossed thats fixed it but i will be sure to still fix the soldering. The injector duty cycle only gets above 90% when the air outside is really cold. Maybe the tune is really fat, might get a wide band on it to make sure it isnt leaning out (Fuel pump issue). Do the R32 GTR Fuel pump controllers have issues? Is it worth running a direct relay to the pump itself?

Cheers

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Do the R32 GTR Fuel pump controllers have issues? Is it worth running a direct relay to the pump itself?

I've had two pump controllers die on me, so i went direct for that reason. I heard on here that some pumps (Walbros?) dont play well with the controller, ie they need the full 14v all the time. Of course stocker pumps should be fine, and i imagine nismo/sard etc are too. If the stock pump is a problem i doubt a direct wire would help at all. Maybe just get a power run to see what your AFRs are.

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I've had two pump controllers die on me, so i went direct for that reason. I heard on here that some pumps (Walbros?) dont play well with the controller, ie they need the full 14v all the time. Of course stocker pumps should be fine, and i imagine nismo/sard etc are too. If the stock pump is a problem i doubt a direct wire would help at all. Maybe just get a power run to see what your AFRs are.

Yeah was thinking about puting it on a Dyno to just be safe. It managed to hit 96% duty cycle last night on the way back from Willowbank... Doesnt seem right.

Is 100 Knock okay on startup?

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