Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

shotgun that airbox lols

FOR SALE R32 GTR Parts

Desno 720cc injectors - $400
HKS super dragger 3 inch to 3.5inch cat back exhaust - $200
white 5 spoke rims with brand new maxxis tyres - $650
R32 GTR stock airbox with brand new filter - $180

Txt me on 0410371188

Cleaning out the shed a bit more.

Got a pair of R34 GTT seats. Passengers in great condition, drivers is good except for a slight split in the stitching on the side bolster. Nothing some coordination and a needle and thread won't fix. Looking for $150.

post-88452-0-54781800-1370177223_thumb.jpg

Also got an oil cooler i have had for years, Off a 13b of some sort I think. Has banjo fittings. No lines. Looking for $80.

post-88452-0-57965200-1370177242_thumb.jpg

Lastly I have a Greddy Oil cooler (just the cooler, no relocation) with earls fittings, lines and sandwich plate for an R34...should fit all RB's though.

Looking for $500.

post-88452-0-90535500-1370177261_thumb.jpg

I'm open to offers so hit me up.

Another update

Stripping S2 R33 Parts

Prices are negotiable.
Can post or take a car load to Sydney.
Located in a Canberra

GTST wing $100
(SOLD) - ECU $150
(SOLD) - Wiring loom $150

Side skirts $100
Rear bar $75
CD player surround $70
(SOLD) - Double din CD/DVD player (alpine) $400

(SOLD) - Shifter surround $40
Centre console $80
Front seats (minor tear on drivers bolster) $150
Rear seats $100
Boot hatch $80
Tail lights $150 (KR4 Silver)
Skyline rear centre garnish $50
Door windows $100 each
Window regs $100 each
Aftermarket cat back exhaust $300

RB20 Turbo (no shaft play about 140,000kms) $200
(SOLD) - G4 Racing Coilovers $400 ono
(SOLD) - Engine $600 (170,000 kms Long block, healthy and strong)

(SOLD) - Diff $200
(SOLD) - Half shafts $100 each

Rear adjustable camber arms $100
19" Maxis Super Hero rims $900 with brand new tyres
19" ROH Modena 3 Piece Rims $1600 with 80% front 50% rear
Turbosmart boost tee $40
Turbosmart boost guage $40
Aftermarket adjustable tie rod ends $70
Stock clutch and flywheel $120
Passenger front guard (perfect condition) $80
Tail shaft $120
Starter motor $100
Alternator $100
Front and rear Brake Calipers $350
Brake rotors x4 - $200
Hubs $300
(SOLD) - Coil packs $150
(D/S SOLD)
- Rear Lower control arms $60 each
Rear cradle $50
Front lower control arms $70 each
Seat belts x 4 $150

(SOLD) - Drivers door cards $80

Passenger door card $80
(SOLD) - Drivers side window switch elects $100

Passenger side window switch elects $50
Window switch surrounds $80 each
Side mirrors $90 each
Steering surround $50
AC control unit $80
Window wipers $20 each
Fuel flap $60
Fuel cap $20
Bonnet latch $50
Boot latch $50
Power steering reservoir $150
(SOLD) - TPS $50
Top dash AC vents $20 each
Passenger side headlight $100
Power steering rack $100
CAS $100
VCT Solenoid $70
Turbo Lines $40
ABS Box $200
Manual Conversion (clutch master $80, clutch slave $80, clutch pedal $50, brake pedal $60) or kit for $225
Nissan Prince Foot well carpets x5 $300
Glove box with working latch $50
Fuel Pump $50
Fuel pump cradle $75
Antenna $75
Lock set (steering lock, door locks, boot lock with key) $200
Sway bars front and rear $50 each
Boot carpets and sides $100

Prob more that I have forgotten.

NO FRONT BAR
NO INTERCOOLER or PIPING
NO RB25 TURBO
NO GEARBOX

NO DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT

Also if anyone is interested Abels smash repairs have a r33 in the back drivers side front is rooted but the engine is good is rb25 with turbo he has for sale also you can make him an offer on any other parts you may want just thought I would let everyone know

August Japan wheels for sale

Front: 5x114.3 17x7 +30

Rear: 5x114.3 & 4x114.3 17x8 +38

$400 for the set or $150 front / $250 rear pairs

3 tyres are bald

P1010784.jpg

P1010785.jpg

Thanks!

$300 if anyone is interested! They are ending on eBay tomorrow but prefer to sell local so I don't have to wrap them for postage.

i would have taken them for 300 but i just brought racing seat... if i sell my wheels on the weekend i will pm you and see if you have em still

$300 if anyone is interested! They are ending on eBay tomorrow but prefer to sell local so I don't have to wrap them for postage.

  • 2 weeks later...

Greddy/Grex/Trust oil cooler, lines and sandwich plate (just cooler, not oil filter relocation) to suit R34 gtt but should fit all RB's.

Core is Trust branded, 12 row. 280mm by 180mm by 50mm.
Earls fittings, sandwich plate is Grex branded and has an inbuilt thermostat that I believe opens at 75 degrees.

Looking for around $500 neg.

post-88452-0-63055400-1372074993_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...