Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Definately go through insurance. I was going to fix mine private (luckily decided not too)

fe62fe28a25b11e1ab011231381052c0_7.jpg

This turned out to be $12,000 fix.

I haven't seen my car now for two months. It's apparantly coming back next week though.

I'd rather get insurance to sort out everything. Get them to source / fit. Give them about 2-3 weeks i hope... Dying without my car but =(

I figured this too. Two months later and no car. My legs hurt and I miss my baby.

Dropped it off today. He said it could be up to 4 months!

Haha, think his over exaggerating, but i know a lot of parts are hard to find.

Told him that i can try source parts and he said he can respray or w/e is needed for them, so see how things go!

I'm presuming at least 1 month would be how long they will realistically have my car.

The wait begins!

My repairs came to 9k when I had an accident. Took 11 weeks to complete the job.

Bonnet

Guard

Headlight

Front bar

Reo

Rad support

Intercooler

Radiator

Piping

Inner wheel arch

LCA

bushes

bolts

etc etc

All the small things add up to alot especially all the bits and pieces they have to buy new from Nissan, just the plastic clips and brackets for the front bar are over $100.

It wasnt a big hit either.

My repairs came to 9k when I had an accident. Took 11 weeks to complete the job.

Bonnet

Guard

Headlight

Front bar

Reo

Rad support

Intercooler

Radiator

Piping

Inner wheel arch

LCA

bushes

bolts

etc etc

All the small things add up to alot especially all the bits and pieces they have to buy new from Nissan, just the plastic clips and brackets for the front bar are over $100.

It wasnt a big hit either.

Same with mine, Wasn't a big hit.

12 grand & 9 weeks later, My shoes are just about worn out.

If the quote comes back around the $10k mark, Get prepared for a write off. Insurance companies are partial to writing a car off once the damage gets to 80% of its valued worth.

You might want to research that first..

An insurance company will only write a vehicle off if the cost of repairs and the salvage value exceed the sum insured or the market value.

Unless the vehicle is a stat write off. (unsafe to repair)

Crap i sure hope it doesn't cost more than 8k to fix my front...

Would hate to be uninsured... pay 5k + to fix the car which is about 40% worth of the car lol.

Hoping for the best! Still waiting for the repairers to call me back when they get their quote done trying to source parts.

PS - Already told them i can try to source parts and requested for a print out of the parts needed so i can start looking.

Got told only after they get their quote, which means that will never happen lol.

Edited by CLNSKY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...