Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Well i decided to trade-in my 06 Focus and bought myself a Stagea Series2 M35 ARX-FOUR. I used to own an r32 coupe Skyline 2.5, before i bought my house, since then I had to sell the Skyline for something more userfriendly(karting building materials). This is alot bigger car than my old Focus, so still getting use to the size of it. Got all the luxuries including a twin sunroof and heated wing mirrors. All the gadgets including the useless Tv that cant be use..lol. Been reading alot of posting here on how to get the DVD-rom to change the language. Also im looking at upgrading the front brakes as they are only single pot, any suggetions on Series2?? also in the process of installing a reversing camera this long weekend.

Look forward to interacting with fellow Stagea enthusiasts.

Cheers :no:

post-94823-0-42005900-1338450083_thumb.jpg

post-94823-0-60517800-1338450121_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401461-newbie-from-nz-m35/
Share on other sites

Hi Mate and Welcome to another series 2 car!

Please dont say how much you bought it for... you kiwis get it good over there with import prices!

The TV can work, you just need a new digital tuner and install. The Language is a no go unfortunatly. Series 1 to 2 changed the setup, and they dont have the conversion for S2 yet. Have been waiting since I bought it, so don't hold your breath.

Brakes - most anything from R32 through R34, V35/350z 370z will fit with a little / varying degrees of mods. Big problem here is that your stock ARX wheels probably wont fit over the brakes. If you want to stay nissan, go for 18x8+30 rims from a V35 or 350z TRACK wheels, otherwise aftermarket- go nuts.

Lots of info in here- search function is good, however there are a few things changed on the S2 cars so dont be afraid to ask!

Hi, I'm another Kiwi owner of an M35 S2 in the same fairly rare shade of blue. Mine's only a lowly 250RX FOUR n/a model however.

Changing the TV tuner isn't really an option over here as our digital TV standards are different to Aussie, so finding a 12V DVB-T tuner running H264/MPEG4 could be difficult. Some connect an XBox, media player or iPhone/iPod to the aux input of the existing tuner, but whatever you do, you'll need to feed it an NTSC signal as the TV monitor doesn't support PAL. Still waiting for the trip computer language translation also. The Russian translators seem to be struggling with this one.

I believe the late Z33 (350Z) base model used a twin piston sliding caliper on a 320mm x 30mm rotor that will fit; and also go under the AR-X rim.

I have no idea how much they would be, or how hard they are to find.

Yeah bit difficult to get the tv going here due to our digital signal, so im not bothering for the meantime, although i hope to get the reversing camera going so atleast i can utelise the factory pop-up tv screen. Anyone done an install on a Series2??

Things have changed since I last looked.

Here's a 12V Freeview tuner that claims to be compatible with NZ standards and can output an NTSC signal.

See: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/other/auction-478825543.htm

The current Japan tuner is fed by 2x integrated aerials (from memory, I think they're etched into the glass side windows), and you maybe able to utilise them as I believe the Aussies guys have with their mods. Sorry, I've never gone down this path with our Stag.

Nice Stag mate. I actually reckon blue ARXs are the best, but then I might be a bit biased.

The M35s do seem to be big cars but your photo with the VE makes it looks small. Did you have the towbar installed or did it come with it? Would love to see some photos.

Given the language conversion is still some time away, an alternative could be to swap out the monitor for the standard pocket and then mount a nav unit that takes a reverse camera input. Or you could do what some Infiniti G35 owners have done and swap the factory monitor for an aftermarket LCD. Here's a link to a thread if you're interested. http://g35driver.com/forums/car-pc/317481-dracovs-carpc-stock-navi-replacement-diy-status-progress.html .

The simpliest option though would be to swap the stereo for an aftermarket 7" double DIN that has nav, DVD and reverse camera input. I believe Chris Rogers has brushed aluminium double DIN facias for sale if you dont have it already.

Just throwing up some ideas for you to think about. I think any one of these options gives much more flexibility than the factory gear can ever provide (even with a language conversion).

Anyway, your Stag looks great and cool number plates as well.

Cheers

Yes I agree, i love the blue colour looks so much better. I got the towbar fitted prior to picking up the Stag from the dealer. I was

originally looking at Skyline 350gt-8 sedan when I spotted the wagon, test drove both, agonised for a week to which one to buy, but I settled with the Stag. Very happy with it, so much space inside. Will be posting some pics for the towbar soon. I might have to look at installing a new tuner at some stage, not important yet just the reversing camera atmo. Anyone use the auto headlight switch much?

I leave my headlights on auto all the time. Only time I manually switch them on is during rain or overcast when it's not quite dark enough for the sensor to trigger, although since I have installed my dashmat they do come on a little bit earlier. The auto feature is great when you enter multi level carparks or similar.

I've got so used to them that when I drive my R31 I nearly forget to switch them off. :-)

Cheers

I've noticed the auto headlight does a two stage switching. Depending on the ambient lighting, it will only turn on the park lights and when it gets a little bit

darker then it turns on the headlights and vice versa. How cool is that!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...