Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Jus wondering my old man is Gunna run his ute at the drags he's Gunna be using full slicks , but they said he needs front runners.

My question is can he use mine n my mates space saver as front runners ?

Might be a stupid question I'm jus wondering

Why would "they" say he has to run skinny front tyres?

That makes no sense.

He could, but they are rated for 80kph. Is he intending on running a 23 second quarter?

While I'm sure they could handle more than 80kph, as a substitute for a "front runner" I personally think it's a completely stupid idea. Your old man has a ute that's running a slick rear, and I assume fast times as "they" said he has to run front runners, yet he's looking at cheaping out by using some space savers?

Seriously, have the school holidays started already?

if you are running proper drag slicks then you need to run 'front runners', which are different to space saver tyres. front runners are a cross ply tyre (as are drag slicks) and the space savers are a radial. all dragways will require you to run front runners with drag slicks. from what i gather, with radial tyres on the front the car will handle poorly at speed because the front tyres handle differently to the rears.

VL owners used to use Monaro space savers but they have since been banned by ANDRA.

"Just letting others know that the use of space saver wheels is now prohibited by ANDRA.

It doesnt matter if you have proper drag racing front runners on them, the wheels are not allowed to be used.

ANDRA reckon they spoke to GM and GM said the wheels are not safe over 80kph.

Space Saver/Emergency Spare Wheels Deemed Unsafe

Friday, 31 July 2009 - Posted by Rob Sharp

(ANDRA Head Office)

ANDRA has confirmed that a ban has been placed on Space Saver/Emergency wheels and tyres effective immediately. ANDRA Officials as well as track staff have been briefed to inform competitors and, if required, make the appropriate Log Book entry.

The safety amendment to the current ANDRA Rules on wheels and tyres is as follows –

4.5.2 Tyres

Tyres must be considered free of defects prior to any run. All treaded tyres must have a minimum tread depth of 1.6mm (1/16 inch). In classes with tyre width limits, the tread surface will be measured in all cases. All vehicles exceeding 160 mph (255 kph) are required to use tyres specifically built for drag racing use. Only dragsters, altereds and motorcycles may use motorcycle tyres. Cars quicker than 12.50 (1/4 mile)/8.00 (1/8 mile) using independent front suspension and cross-ply rear slicks are not permitted to use radial front tyres. Metal valve caps are required on all wheels. Retreading of any tyre on any vehicle quicker than 12.50 (1/4 mile)/8.00 (1/8 mile) or unsafe modification of racing tyres is not permitted. The use of speed limited tyres manufactured for space saver / emergency spare rims is prohibited.

4.5.3 Wheels

Hub-caps and clip-on trims must be removed during all competition. Scrutineers may check for loose wheel nuts and cracked or damaged wheels. Each car must be fitted with automotive type wheels with a minimum diameter of 12 inches (304.8mm) unless class regulations permit otherwise. Rim width for sedans is a minimum of 3 inches (76.2mm). The use of automotive wire wheels and centre-lock devices is restricted to cars on which they were originally fitted. Automotive type wire wheels or motorcycle wheels are prohibited on vehicles in Altered classes. The use of speed limited rims known as ‘space saver’ or an emergency spare is prohibited. Each wheel stud must protrude past the outer face of the wheel by a distance no less than the diameter of the stud used. The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud. Length of the stud does not determine legality, length of engagement between the stud and hex portion of the lug determines legality. (eg. A 7/16-inch stud must be completely engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug nut a minimum of 7/16-inch). All cars quicker than 11.00 (1/4 mile)/7.00 (1/8 mile) must be fitted with open ended wheel nuts. Factory alloy wheels may use original wheel nuts/studs. Motorcycle or lightweight racing wheels must use spokes with a minimum diameter of 1/8 inch (3.2mm), properly cross laced to provide maximum strength. All spoke holes in hub and rim must be used.

For further information email [email protected]

www.andra.com.au "

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...