Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So after installing the boost controller it was time to test it out on the dyno.

sorry the pics are a bit shity but here we go.

We tryed 3 diferent settings,(stock turbo is f**ked) 7psi,9psi and 10.5psi droping off to around 9 leaving it at 170kw.

Sadly it was pig rich,stupid stock ecu, so theres an easy 10-15kwto be had if it was runing around 12.5:1

but ended up with a 14% gain overall.

IMG_0286.jpg

KW and Torque

IMG_0290.jpg

KW and boost

IMG_0288.jpg

IMG_0289.jpg

Torque and boost

IMG_0287.jpg

Since we have turned the boost up on the R34 it was time for a front mount intercooler

IMG_0294.jpg

I was pretty surprised how much bigger the GTT intercooler is compared to an R33 one

IMG_0291.jpg

IMG_0292.jpg

Delta fin 8-) tested on of these coolers on my mates rb25 s13 on the dyno against another type of intercooler and it really performed well,

much lower intake temps.

IMG_0295.jpg

IMG_0296.jpg

IMG_0298.jpg

will probly finish it on tuesday

Hmmm i started having a problem with the r32 idleing really high, and it seemed like the throttlebody's were not fully closing.

After checking everything that could be affecting the last thing to do was remove the intake manifold,and im glad i did....

Pulling the plenum away from the throttle bodys i strait away saw the peice of tissue paper caught around one of the throttlebodys,dope au

DSCF1745.jpg

So i thought f**k while this shits off i might aswell do as much as i can so i decided to get rid of evrey single water line, heater hoses and all,everythings gone, getting rid of some realy shit hoses andd a million possible leak points

DSCF1741.jpg

And i also gave the plenum a blasting while its off to

DSCF1743.jpg

As soon as i get some ball joints and swaybar bushes this will be going in the laurel

DSCF1746.jpg

DSCF1747.jpg

Thanks DJRIFT, yea its definantly a problem, my tuner had a considerable voltage drop in his 32 GTR through shitty old loom,

So he wasnt going to tune mine until i had done it haha.

:thumbsup: Cheer's Samos69, haha yea well my mate had a GTS-t the same year and the rego just said "skyline coupe" so we threw the rego and plates on

the GTR, i drove it all the way from Auckland to New plymouth :sweat: 260km runs on the motorway

Trying to build a responsive 20 :P

DSCF1801.jpg

DSCF1808.jpg

DSCF1806.jpg

DSCF1807.jpg

DSCF1799.jpg

DSCF1798.jpg

DSCF1797.jpg

Its a Garrett copy T28, watercooled, 360* thrust bearing and .64 rear, should be good for the rb20, even a shity t3t4 makes 20's pretty damn laggy, so this shud be good.

Yea its a t3-t2 adaptor and im going to have the wastegate venting from it, much easier than moding the manifold, and it means i get

to keep the heat sheild ;)

I saw a picture of a cef a little while ago with one, and that was runing a huge turbo to, so im hoping it will fit fine in the laurel (finger's crossed)

Just palnning on runing it on around 13-14psi runing a mines chiped ecu, would be happy if it made 160-170kw,injectors would be maxed tho.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...