Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

particular part i need to replace on my car:

Ex Nissan Australia - $272.40

Ex Nissan Japan - $112.60

Ex Nissan UAE - $59.52

I do believe we are getting ripped off in Oz. :domokun: :domokun:

Got another one of these for u, 350z Hub assebaly for my 03 V35 skyline

Nissan aus $500

Nissan US $120 posted

Well played nissan well played, then 1 better, posted that on there site asked them why, they went on about economic scaling and some other bullshit LMFAO talk about a blatant lie.

yep, just nissan BS for ripping us off

http://www.amayama.com/

Nissan parts from japan et al. online^^^

i'm going to order some stuff through these guys and try them out

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

I dont get how I could of lost them, unless I left a spare set in my gym bag and they fell out at the gym..

But went to the gym and no one has handed any in...so maybe someone kept them knowing which car I drive and will steal my car while im doing a set etc...

I'd be questioning that one as it has a/c and N1s don't have it

yeh i was thinking the same thing after i posted it - could have been added later though.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
×
×
  • Create New...