Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I was gunna say learn to clutch kick, then I read your spec list Mark and the problem is pretty obvious...your clutch is no good..your setup should be good for 350kws dude..how can you expect to get close to that with a 250kw clutch..?

yeah true buts its holding well at moment, so should i shoot higher then , like 340kw with E85 and get a better clutch you think, just work with what i got and boost it up??

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If your tuner has that opinion of pump e85 then I wouldn't be getting him to do either tune. The safety offered by ethanol is required imo to tune at 300+kw power with a GT30 rear. Yes it has been done but those setups are knock limited, there is no point pushing petrol to that point as the 98 fuel variation will kill it quicker.

Get e85 tuned a little rich and you will be fine on any ethanol fuel, if you are worried just slap a wideband in the dash and add 98 as required.

I haven't done water injection on any of my cars yet although I plan to direct inject water into a spare high compression VQ25 I have here. If you could inject it on the exhaust stroke you would have the steam to help spool the turbo, possibly gaining some response back. Perhaps it could work in the manifold too?

some good ideas there, im not really mechanically minded to be the ginnea pig with water injection though, just want some strong results without guessing, experimenting,

thanks for all the input people, so looks like i need a different tuner then and E85 with some decent boost, hmm, i was quite happy with how cautious my tuner was and how he explained everything , he let me watch the whole thing....

well atleast im getting closer to an answer to my problem here, one thing i like about this turbo is that it really seems to react to each psi increase very well, 15psi to 18psi felt huge on the road.

Edited by SliverS2

Yeah gtx should respond real well..I say get a clutch, bigger injectors and better fuel pump and you will smash out an extra 50kws..add E85 and you could smash another 50kw on top of that..your nowhere near the potential of that turbo yet..

what about my stock bottem end? will that take over 320kws with E85? maybe i should stop with 320kw and try to build up the mid range with the E85? how long is a piece of string lol... can see this going to RB30 bottem end and 350kw plus over a long build up period lol... help me fry tyres lol hahaha

Edited by SliverS2

Firstly it appears you have missed this thread..

http://www.skylinesa...opened-25-club/

Secondly, if a tyre fryer is all you want why not just give up now and build a V8, you will get far better results for less ..

A built rb30 is gunna cost 5-10k and a fair bit of messin about, where a simple V8 commy with CAI, cams cam and an aftermarket exhaust will fry tyres all day long..

nah mate ive read that thread over and over, and i dont want some dirty V8 in my bonnet lol.... hahahah

ok well according to tuner i have carbon build up, thats why it wouldnt accept more timing apparently?? and yeah it was disapointing that it didnt hit 300Kw on 18psi like in all the 300kw club did...

So where does leave me?? hmm i dont wanna spend 5-10k or mess around much more, already spend over 5K already so im at the end of my $$$ spending pretty much, maybe i should of just bought a 2003 SS ute and enjoyed some tyre frying V8 but too late for that and im committed to my RB and love it, so ok with 2K budget and with goal of doing this around Xmas time i wanna try to make most of what i got, keep in mind stock motor and making it more aggressive...

so far im accepting E85 is the way to go with 20psi plus to wake this thing up and get it a bit more pissed off lol... think ill try that and see what happens... if it can come up with 320kw and a meatier mid range ill hang my hat up at that and just enjoy the thing... dam wish id of gone 0.63 internal with E85 now but cant look back.. :yes:

Edited by SliverS2

man on E85 at even 18psi will get you over 300kw and the midrange will be great..do not get a .63 internal thats just silly, your turbo setup is perfect already, you even have cams ffs..it should be a goddamn rocket..

for 2k as i said, Id be getting get bigger/better injectors and fuel pump, you will probably need a new clutch too and if your tuner isnt happy with E85 find a new one and you should be smoking tyres like a madman :thumbsup:

thanks mate, just the answer i was looking for.. all i can do is see what happens, i think its pretty good, so with E85 i should be happy i hope.. lol.. what pump should i do ? bosh 044 intank or a deatchworks 300L/ph??

im thinking deatchworks 1000cc injectors deatchworks 300L/ph pump and a NPC 300kwplus rated organic cluch, does this sound adequate????

The new Walbro 416lph looks good for the money, and ethanol safe apparently. I can get them for $180 locally and they flow around 215lph at 85psi while drawing only 18amps.

Personally I would get the Bosch ev14 1000's and go for a 14mm top feed rail.

yeah what he said ^^^

also if you go NPC you will want the 10inch carbotic ..its rated to almost 400kw,,..DWs injectors should be ok but there are better,..Im not certain about your fuel pump it might be ok as long as its wired for full voltage try it and see..

But before doing anything just grab a drum of e85 and get someone to tune it, see how it goes then upgrade parts from there..no point buying stuff you may not need..

I've also been thinking about this for a long time, i'm doing a DE+TT on my 300ZX and i have 2 Eflex pumps near my house. Only problem is my car is a daily driver so taking it for fairly long drives is out of the question.

so you think just see what happens? the tuner said the injectors are on 78% now with 285kw , so no way they are going to be ok with E85, so maybe your saying replace injectors and then use what i have with a NPC clutch and see?

Another question, can i fill up with some E85 without flogging the car , with the purpose of cleaning carbon off the engine parts????? how long would it take and what %mix??? 20L in each tank for a few tanks??

I've also been thinking about this for a long time, i'm doing a DE+TT on my 300ZX and i have 2 Eflex pumps near my house. Only problem is my car is a daily driver so taking it for fairly long drives is out of the question.

Sounds like that thing has so much potential being 3L and can put twin garretts on it plus E85, too much temptation there lol

Another question, can i fill up with some E85 without flogging the car , with the purpose of cleaning carbon off the engine parts????? how long would it take and what %mix??? 20L in each tank for a few tanks??

If its not tuned for it, it wont run. You'll be totally under fuelling.

And don't think you stock motor will last forever @ 300rwkw.

Slowly but surely some users in the 300rwkw RB25 thread, are killing motors. It was always going to happen, and there will be more as the months roll on.

If you want a stock motor to last, stick to a safe 260-280rwkw on a sensible 16-18psi.

Realistically you've got a GTX, you NEED to run upwards of 20psi to make benefit of it. So unless you do want to run such levels of boost you should have purchased a GT3076.

I think your right, So even on E85 will the stock motor have limited life?? i dont bounce off limiter or do any track days or drag, its 99% street use..

anyone want a GTX3076 without rear in perfect condition?? what if i just changed the compressor wheel would that make it a GT3076 and change the boost threshold????

Sounds like that thing has so much potential being 3L and can put twin garretts on it plus E85, too much temptation there lol

And the thing is i'm going to have a built longblock on the side aswell, so when the NA motor dies i swap them around and keep going.

hmm, i shoulda coulda got a 300zx, they were a bit cheaper than a R33 at the time but thought 2 of everthing that takes alot of $$$ maybe one day lol

Depends man, i lucked out with my car because its been VERY reliable as it was always taken care of. But most you see are thrashed out and have problems which is why im boosting mine to avoid buying someone elses lemon. Also my mates are mechanics and my whole setup is costing me ~$1500 ish to do, 7psi base tune on 98 at first then some big injectors and E85 after. They make about 250rwkw on stock turbos(16psi) and PULP98, i'm hoping mine on 18psi and E85 will be a little bit more than that. R33 is allround easier to work on and live with, but after driving many examples of both i can't go past a nice Z32.

well going off the tuners advice, once again here, i was told its the heat that kills the motor, the 98pump fuel when you get too high in boost you start going backwards, and the exhaust valves start to burn , but if i was using E85 he said he would go upto 1.5bar and still be safe on a stock motor, and it would except alot more ignition timing, so is that really saying the motor is on borrowed time with what would be 320kw plus on a stock engine????

sounds like its not to do with the power but more to do with the temperature of the combustion process, so a 300kw engine could blow on 98 but a E85 could be happy on 340kw if the combustion was cool and under control.??? is that right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...