Jump to content
SAU Community

Dull Carbon Fibre Bonnet


PSI086
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if there is there such a thing as a product to revive dull/faded spots on carbon fibre? Its gone a bit shitty from being left out in the sun. Or would a wet sand, buff and light cut be sufficient?

Edited by PSI086
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just wondering if there is there such a thing as a product to revive dull/faded spots on carbon fibre? Its gone a bit shitty from being left out in the sun. Or would a wet sand, buff and light cut be sufficient?

how did u go with this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven't touched it since. I did try a good meguires polish on it before starting this thread and it made very little difference.

Is the resin buffed at all when the bonnets are manufactured or is the finish as it is when it cures?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Carbon bonnets in most cases can be cut and polished just like paint( except dry carbon)

megulars m105

Or farcula and a buffer

Then use some fireglaze in top of a show car glaze applied with buffer ( do not use lambswool pads!!!)

other choice sand up from 4000 to 12,000 grit then above , if the bonnet has cleared paint then sand carefully and repaint with diamond clear from DNA paint

It can be flow coated with a new product that looks like 25 mm of standing water its so shiny but the cost and process is a big one left for a carbon layer , the product has to be imported from USA not sold here but is UV stable and used on jet engines cowl so heat from the sun wont touch it , note real carbon sands real easy and you can buff right thru it in a flash so use care

Most bonnets sold here arent UV stable and get crappy in a few years if left untreated or in sun a lot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paint it body color for the "its stock look"

Mine is a FRP though , and it has big arse Aerocatch locks on it so its not as stealthy as it once was, but at least now it wont fly up at speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ever since i got a bad recommendation from autobarn and it ruined my cf bonnet, ive used the meguiars plastx cleaner and polish.

It still need to be redone every now and then but the car rarely leaves the shed when its raining so it stays good for a while.

Ive actually just looked at the bottle and its the lowest restoration fix of there products. there is a moderate and severe to try. So until i paint it to match car was going to try the moderate if i can find it.

But it works just like polish and ive never had a problem with it. And when i did use the stuff i was recommended from autobarn the bonnet just about matched the white paintwork so it does its job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its sprayed clear , treat it just like a car paint , wax it etc, just remember the clear will be much thinner ( some will be epoxy clear other lacquer which cracks and hazes fast)

You can also get what is called "blushing " kinda a wipe off hazy look thats from non UV stable and possibly chemical reaction still occuring in the epoxy from the heating, in that case let it cook in the sun one hot day then wash with good car soap not kit or some crap like dish soap

And show car glaze and your fav good paste wax

Once again not turtlewax, kit or cheap crap

Using only microfiber towels to wash and dry snd polish not lambs wool for anything or sponges

If you drop the rag grab another one dont use it again

And when you wash rags DO not use fabric softener it leaves a haze on your car and smears

The epoxy used on carbon bonnets is paperthin in most cases so sanding or even a detailer polisher can be dangerous and require a reflow of epoxy or even carbon repair which is paper thin too

Edited by Carbon 34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

depending on how bad it is take it to a mob called aquadip i have seen them fix up faded carbon bonnets just by cutting back the resin and reclearing it again i think it would be better because clear takes alot longer to fade and go that yellow colour than resin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
    • So, 2 months later, I just couldn't see any way to be happy with that tank setup. Basically the baffle area is too big and too leaky, the sender was miles off and the no low fuel light thing really bugs me. Other than the fact the fuel hat could safely supply enough power to the pump, it was worse than factory. Biggest thing that bugged me is it would still run out of fuel in medium-high g corners from about 1/4 tank down which is annoying when you are trying to have a zoom, not to mention potentially engine killing if it gets just the right amount of lean-ness....and we've got a few of those corners in our round trip to town (well, bunnings...) So, credit to Frenchy's, they have put together a much better designed setup with what is effectively an in tank surge setup.   As it happens the actual hat is the same, so I switched the fittings across, re-used the single 525 pump, and added a spare pierburg lift pump that I had (must remember to replace that stock, it was a spare for the race car). The only real work to get it all done was to add a second power and earth to the hat which I did by going from a single output to double output relay (very low draw on the lift pump) and also the sender unit that clips into the factory pump holder was again way too loose (so I re-used the 2mm shims from the previous setup). Finally, I added the low fuel light sender from the factory cradle. So....I'll report back how it handles low fuel, and if the sender has any relation to actual fuel level in the tank....
    • The price isn't the issue, it's how hard my fuel pump is to remove now. I fabricated a custom bracket so my pump sits on the very bottom of the tank (I ran the tank down to 5L remaining to test it, works well). But it is a fkn NIGHTMARE to get the pump down into the tank now =/ words can't describe how much I hate fighting with the fuel pump/hanger now. The other issue is reliability, I'm driving down for WTA in a couple of months, I'd be less then impressed if I was half way to Sydney from Brisbane and my pump fails again =/ The other issue I had was my car battery was slowly failing, with low battery voltage my fuel pump couldn't keep up with what the reg was asking from it. I've replaced the battery and my fuel pressure is back to being perfect.  As for the low voltage situation that killed my previous battery, I've got a 150amp alternator sitting on my desk waiting to go in. Fingers crossed that will sort that issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...