Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 23/06/2012 at 12:08 PM, Manuel Kasko said:

Fingers crossed mate.

Is the tuner going to hit you up with a free touch up tune?

Haha I hope there'll be some sort of discount - but doubt it. These fellas were pretty quick to charge me for everything single little thing they did. Even things that took 15mins were billed out as a full hour of work. Not sure if I really want to go back there to be honest.

Did try it out with entire exhaust dropped and there was a difference so she's booked in tomorrow for new hi-flow cat. I don't think I've ever heard such insane turbine spool before ;)

  On 25/06/2012 at 12:26 PM, BWRGTR said:

coz they aint dime a dozen

$200 34 gtr dumps vs $800 + HPI ect.

Spose its the same as people spending a couple thou on a shiney jap cooler compared to a GTR one for Under $300.

That's about right

Well, the new cat is in and I've also straightened out a portion of the exhaust with a dead straight pipe. She feels like they come on a bit sooner....am hoping that I don't regret not going for a set of -7's.

(I'm a sucker for response as you may have guessed)

  On 26/06/2012 at 4:06 AM, SiR_RB said:

Regret not going -7? They will be very very little difference between the 2 mate

The problem is somewhere else and not the turbos

Yeh well that's just it - I did about 3-4 months of reading and emailing random peeps to see what these buggers will be like.

I guess there's only one way to find out and that's a re-tune now that there's a better cat and everything has been checked for leaks.

  On 26/06/2012 at 4:24 AM, tommis85 said:

Yeh well that's just it - I did about 3-4 months of reading and emailing random peeps to see what these buggers will be like.

I guess there's only one way to find out and that's a re-tune now that there's a better cat and everything has been checked for leaks.

They for sure dont sound like how they should be peforming, Then again i spent months debating -9s and -5s so what do i know haha :)

  On 26/06/2012 at 6:00 AM, sydking said:

They for sure dont sound like how they should be peforming, Then again i spent months debating -9s and -5s so what do i know haha :)

That's exactly it. I guess it's all up to the tune now...need to get that fuel in down low to make more....fumes, and consequently more boost and power. Everyone seems to be saying 16 to 18 pounds by 4000rpm.

So what turbos did you end up going for? The -5's are quite a top end turbo right? The have a much bigger A/R than the -9s?

  On 26/06/2012 at 9:52 AM, sydking said:

Went -9 because i came to the conclusion that it would be the most usable power on the streets, no track no drags. End of they day they can always he changed. Still its like naming a child haha

Yes it was stupidly hard choosing between the -7 and -9 units! I came very close to buying -7's and only changed to -9's because peeps say that they give a little bit more up top? Like, they don't run out of puff too early etc.

How do yours perform??

  On 26/06/2012 at 10:52 AM, tommis85 said:

Arent they like a float bearing turbo or is that the 8cm ones?

nothing wrong with bush or floating bearing turbos.

The preload on the actuators can also make a HUGE difference to response on these things, we dial in 10mm minimum on them before install. Just make sure to balance them equally.

check out this GTR with -5's, it picked up 900rpm.

https://fbcdn-sphoto...445052851_n.jpg

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150611091641813&set=a.10150265368356813.328814.728171812&type=1

Well the thing is that I'm already running quite firm actuators that are 15.6psi I think. But I guess the problem lies where the actuators crack. I'll add a little bit more preload to them and see what happens eh?

Maybe that fella in the link who picked up the 900rpm was running very soft actuators?

  On 26/06/2012 at 9:04 PM, tommis85 said:

Well the thing is that I'm already running quite firm actuators that are 15.6psi I think. But I guess the problem lies where the actuators crack. I'll add a little bit more preload to them and see what happens eh?

Maybe that fella in the link who picked up the 900rpm was running very soft actuators?

the ones on that gtr were 15psi ones aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...