Jump to content
SAU Community

I Broke My R33 Gtr Front Diff :(

tommis85
 Share

Recommended Posts

tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

It looks like that a couple hours on the dyno were the straw that broke the camel's back....my front diff. On the way back from tuning the diff was emitting horrible sounds and after inspections it turns out we have a severely worn set of gears in it. The crown gear is missing all it's heat coating and well, is very worn down. Looks like a wrong batch of oil was used that was thin as water.

My mechanic in town has located one mob that has some 2nd hand diff innards for sale but with quite a price tag attached.

Do any of you guys know where else I could get some from, short of me putting up a WTB ad? Also, I take it that I could you gears from a 32?

....I have done a bit of "googling" but have mainly been coming across UK threads.

Thanks for your time gents

PS - car is currently in rear wheel drive "mode" with front prop shaft removed to save the diff from locking up completely or something horrid like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403380-i-broke-my-r33-gtr-front-diff/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Having swapped to Nismo front/rear before i sold my GTR - no word of a lie probably the best mods I did.

The car handled so much better there is no scale of measure i could put to it thats how good the improvements were over stock/worn diffs as they lock perfectly.

tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ah ok, yeh I can imagine. It would have to be as awesome as putting in new coil overs or something like that!

Only problem is that I don't really have a spare $1500 to throw at it...may have to do it later down the track.

Sounds pretty nasty with your sump!

  • 3 months later...
Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

Sorry about thread dig but could you please describe the sound when the front LSD broke?

Did it made clicking sound that you can feel while driving it?

Cheers

tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry about thread dig but could you please describe the sound when the front LSD broke?

Did it made clicking sound that you can feel while driving it?

Cheers

It sounded like a wicked set of straight cut gears ;-) No clicking or vibrating...just noise because of how the teeth were worn (no longer helical etc)

Is yours broke?

Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

It sounded like a wicked set of straight cut gears ;-) No clicking or vibrating...just noise because of how the teeth were worn (no longer helical etc)

Is yours broke?

I've no idea at the moment, waiting for friend to come over and have a look at it, hopefully it's just the CV like I originally thought.

We'll see...

tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well if it's clicking then there's a fair chance it's a worn CV....does it click when your driving around sharp bends/corners?

If the diff is making a clicking or clunking sound then it's bound to be in really bad shape haha

Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

It turns out it wasn't either CV or front diff, oddly it was coilovers... Clicking sound happen when I braked it.

Oh well, all that worrying for nothing!

Munro Experienced

Munro

Posted
Posted

I am looking for a GTR front crownwheel & pinion at the moment.

Too much power to the front wheels - have broken the teeth off mine!

Already have good LSD centre - just need the gears if anyone has them spare

after changing ratios.....................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...