Jump to content
SAU Community

Drive Shaft Upgrades?

NYTSKY
 Share

Recommended Posts

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Having snapped my shafts like twigs on the weekend im looking for options to upgrade.

I have a friend who tried billet items from the US but snapped them also. Should I just keep putting stock ones back in and see how I go?

What have you done? Bought?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403441-drive-shaft-upgrades/
Share on other sites
skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

Just because someone snapped the drive shafts from the States doesn't mean you will. They seem to be reasonably priced. Go for it. How old were your drive shafts by the way ? Original ?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Are you snapping the half shafts or the driveshafts?

If you are snapping the half shafts, modify the way you drive. We have guys that run low 9's on standard diffs. If you just roll up, limiter and launch then you are going to always break shit. If you roll up, handbrake on, preload the driveline, handbrake off and then limiter launch, you will probably save everything

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Half shafts and possibly the planetary gears in the diff.

I didnt launch the car as I was just feeling out the traction, its axle hopped twice just after I left the line then bang.

Ill be putting stock shocks in the rear and getting I higher profile tyres but want to see if there any worthwhile options for the shafts.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

I think its even possible to install the GTR centre into the existing R200 housing. Then all you need to do is bolt the GTR axles to the side and go do some launches. Internal widths etc are all the same from memory. I have a couple of diffs lying around the shop I could check but time is scarce for me during the day so you might have to wait a month for that info

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

yep, use the GTR set up, one race team i read about break half shafts on a semi regular basis then tried using aftermarket shafts but they broke more often than factory shafts, thier solution was to use new factory shafts and change the way they launched the car (ie no axle hop)

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

Rear subframes are all interchangable, Could you not just shim the diff to a cirtain spec.

ive fit Gtr front hubs and also changed over the rear hubs on my GTS4, Through thats probly much more similar drivertrain to a gtr then a gtst would be.

Though in saying that i did use gtst rear hubs and the axels are a straight fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...