Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So few people have told me to put it up so here it is!

got the car a few months back with the usual, shitty 3" system, blitz turn flow, manual boost bleeder and POD.

drove it for a few months and was reasonably happy but....meh, could be better, i wanted to build something with a decent amount of low end and the boost to come on as soon as possible with room to improve in the future.

So the ordering of parts began!

post-93368-0-13208100-1340885287_thumb.jpg

044 and 1000cc bosch ev14s

post-93368-0-15225000-1340885996_thumb.jpg

gcg oil and water line kit

post-93368-0-79963100-1340886856_thumb.jpg

gt3076r .86 twin scroll rear, 6boost mani, 40mm turbosmart gates

post-93368-0-07386100-1340887572_thumb.jpg

Plazmaman intake mani, throttle body, BOV

post-93368-0-32567000-1340887899_thumb.jpg

NPC sprung centre button

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403648-r34-gtt-daily-buildfor-now/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

so drove it into my mates workshop and began to strip down the car

post-93368-0-57066100-1347253155_thumb.jpg

as it came in

post-93368-0-21983300-1347253417_thumb.jpg

pulled all this junk off

post-93368-0-08790300-1347253733_thumb.jpg

trial fitted manifold

post-93368-0-79048500-1347253862_thumb.jpg

found the mani interfered with the a/c line, could be bothered sending the manifold back to QLD to be fixed, so i made up a new a/c line instead

post-93368-0-83849400-1347254105_thumb.jpg

fitted turbo and manifold, new studs and gaskets (got a bit excited seeing it mounted up), after this i made up the oil and water lines for the turbo with a gig kit(push lock fittings are shit)

post-93368-0-00499600-1347254438_thumb.jpg

fitted up plazmaman plenum, rerouted vacuum and coolant lines, extended and shortened some wiring

post-93368-0-32236400-1347254749_thumb.jpg

sold this

post-93368-0-82320000-1347254851_thumb.jpg

and this

post-93368-0-62395400-1347255000_thumb.jpg

had dumps made up by scotty(sick work)

post-93368-0-94958800-1347255219_thumb.jpg

cat and rest of the system and rear muffler Hooker aero chamber

post-93368-0-12426100-1347255407_thumb.jpg

fitted up new clutch from npc, hopefully it lasts

post-93368-0-43597800-1347255674_thumb.jpg

bolted to the standard flywheel

post-93368-0-34452500-1347256554_thumb.jpg

also had scotty make up part of the intercooler piping and the turbo intake pipe

post-93368-0-39617500-1347256676_thumb.jpg

fitted the battery to the boot

post-93368-0-43936600-1347256770_thumb.jpg

intalled a link G4 plug in

post-93368-0-18524100-1347256940_thumb.jpg

fitted link MAP sensor(top centre of pic) and MAC solenoid(on top of abs module) to control boost via the link instead of a separate boost controller

once this was all done it was off to see trent at chequered tuning where everything went well and nothing i had assembled fell off or caught fire

post-93368-0-22052900-1347257236_thumb.jpg

post-93368-0-06156000-1347257319_thumb.jpg

post-93368-0-44764700-1347257456_thumb.jpg

Nice Owen!

What have you done about your wheels rubbing against the wiring under the guard?

Found out on the weekend mine was rubbing against the plastic loom too and now has a hole in it.

Had to raise the car up a bit, could relocate it to the engine bay but don't know if i cbf :/

My looms rubbed through the conduit and just started on the wires :(

How do you find the 1.5 way with daily driving? Grabby and clunky at slow speeds?

Mines not a daily only a toy and just thinking of shimming the LSD farking tight again as most good LSD's ive seen are just as harsh when driving slowly.

Hey Owen, I am running the same diff and it's nice and quiet after a bit of driving... It binds in carparks but generally it's quiet... I initially thought it was shit as it was loud etc but then found out my coilovers were to blame and the diff is sweet ;)

Yeah I don't mind it, just sick of people asking about it.

Lol.

It will free up. They are very bitey when new.

Takes a little bit to get used to the lockup and slight push into the corner.

  • 1 year later...

So its been ages since i've updated this, probably cos i've done nothing and am always working.

Anyway, 2nd was shagged in the gearbox so i pulled it out to rebuild it, ordered everything from Nissan japan, through jesse streeter and it cost about half of what it would have from a local nissan dealer.

For everyone who has wanted to rebuild there box but has been too scared to because of all the posts saying you need special tools blah, blah, blah, I say just do it.

I used a workshop press a bearing puller kit and a hammer and made some (really basic) parts for the puller.

anyway here are some pics (everyone loves pics)

tools used

post-93368-0-24635700-1383852902_thumb.jpg

post-93368-0-64947100-1383853003_thumb.jpg

My mad puller attachments

post-93368-0-44859200-1383853118_thumb.jpg

so anyway, got my bearings and seals from ATC and got a full set of synchro's and 2nd gear, shift sleeve and shift fork from japan!

cases off

post-93368-0-59903800-1383858616_thumb.jpg

shift forks off

post-93368-0-15597600-1383858987_thumb.jpg

my mad puller setup

post-93368-0-92475900-1383859102_thumb.jpg

a scary pile of parts

post-93368-0-89329400-1383859311_thumb.jpg

then all back together yay(about a month later, cos waiting on parts)

post-93368-0-56087400-1383859430_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...