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Yeah from the slave..after we dropped all the fluid out and put the new master cylinder on. We spent a fair bit of time making sure all the air was out of the system..

Yeah I dont reckon that will work. IIRC the dampener box has a bleeder, but you really want to bleed at the highest point, because that's where the air will be. I replaced my master a while back, but cant remember what i did about bleeding....(but its ok). So first step bleed the box and see if that helps (it should, IIRC it does trap air there).

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We saw air bubbles come out of the master cylinder, and topped it up 4-5 times (the master cylinder Reservoir )

Where is the dampner box? Still learning all about this and pretty much winging it as I go..

We saw air bubbles come out of the master cylinder, and topped it up 4-5 times (the master cylinder Reservoir )

Where is the dampner box? Still learning all about this and pretty much winging it as I go..

Just follow the hard line from the slave and you cant miss it.

The dampener is a rectagular/square alloy lump bolted to the inside of the driver's side chassis rail. Hard line comes down from the clutch master to it, and hard line runs from it to the clutch slave. There is a long loop of extra hard line involved. It wrecks pedal feel and makes it hard to bleed the clutch.

A bit of judicious bending of the hard line allows you to remove it and connect the clutch hose directly to the hard line from the master. Much better. But do it gently.

Does it necessarily matter where you bleed it from as long as you get all the air out of the system?

So you mean essentially remove the loop within the hard line so there is less distance for the fluid to travel?

The pedal feels exactly the same as it did before I originally blew the slave cylinder. It's a very very heavy pedal, heavier then any other car i've driven.

But after bleeding several times, the feeling returns to as it was originally.

Ok abit more info:

Saturday, put a new master cylinder on. Adjusted the master cylinder inside the cabin (almost all the way, only 1-2mm of thread left) Worked for about 20 minutes of driving, then started doing the same issue. Often won't go into first, or reverse. Start the car in first, with the clutch fully in and the car will crawl forward like it is in gear (despite the clutch being foot to the floor.

System was gravity bled and pump bled for an hour. in total we bled it 3-4 times.

Spoke to a mechanic friend and he says that he had a similar issue and when he pulled his clutch out several of the clutch springs had come loose.

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Adjustment sounds like it's incorrect.

You probably can't even push the clutch fork back towards the slave cylinder - that is a clear indication of overadjustment

It was adjusted by my mate who is a mechanic - and then checked by another mate who has experience with Nissan clutches and he looked at the adjustment/felt the free play and said that was all adjusted correctly..

It was adjusted by my mate who is a mechanic - and then checked by another mate who has experience with Nissan clutches and he looked at the adjustment/felt the free play and said that was all adjusted correctly..

So after reading my last comment you checked the slave cylinder pushrod can be pushed back inside the slave?

So after reading my last comment you checked the slave cylinder pushrod can be pushed back inside the slave?

No, that shall be done tonight.

Do I need to push it in manually, or have someone push the clutch inside the cabin and watch it?

If it can't be pushed back in, that means it's over adjusted?

Thanks

No, that shall be done tonight.

Do I need to push it in manually, or have someone push the clutch inside the cabin and watch it?

If it can't be pushed back in, that means it's over adjusted?

Thanks

Yes, push it manually. You are pushing the slave cylinder pushrod back inside the slave cylinder. If it's locked in place or can't be pushed far, it's over adjusted and the master cylinder internal cup seal is blocking the recovery port which means its over adjusted. If you can push it all the way back inside then you have another problem (assuming it's bled correctly - if not bled correctly, it will feel spongy by hand)

Yes, push it manually. You are pushing the slave cylinder pushrod back inside the slave cylinder. If it's locked in place or can't be pushed far, it's over adjusted and the master cylinder internal cup seal is blocking the recovery port which means its over adjusted. If you can push it all the way back inside then you have another problem (assuming it's bled correctly - if not bled correctly, it will feel spongy by hand)

Ok. Shall try that when I get home from work. In the mean time, recommendations on a replacement clutch if I need one?

Ok. Shall try that when I get home from work. In the mean time, recommendations on a replacement clutch if I need one?

I have no idea where on earth you would get that kind of information.

I'm not even sure who around here would know. Maybe the Skyline UK forums might have some info?

Ok i have a question. n my rb25 neo the slave cyl on the side of the box i can push the push rod back into the slave cyl about 20mm. Why is this and would it cause a clutch to fail. f there is anything wrong with it how can i over come this problem. I'm thinking of adding a return spring to push it back in more when i'm off the clutch peddle.

Ok i have a question. n my rb25 neo the slave cyl on the side of the box i can push the push rod back into the slave cyl about 20mm. Why is this and would it cause a clutch to fail. f there is anything wrong with it how can i over come this problem. I'm thinking of adding a return spring to push it back in more when i'm off the clutch peddle.

You don't need to overcome anything. It's not a problem

I have no idea where on earth you would get that kind of information.

I'm not even sure who around here would know. Maybe the Skyline UK forums might have some info?

You? Any of the other clutch experts on here.

Most likely going to get it rebuilt by Jim Berry.

You? Any of the other clutch experts on here.

Most likely going to get it rebuilt by Jim Berry.

No, I was moreso referring to the dozens of threads with every single piece of information necessary to determine which clutch you require. I'm definitely no expert. I just help a mate on weekends

Yeah I have been researching - Hence most likely choosing Jim Berry.

Got under the car last night, could push the slave cydlinder rod in maybe 5cm? at the most.

Mind you, I didn't jack the car up - if I was under the car and able to exert more force it may have been able to be pushed in further.

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