Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone thought I'd wright up my project 33

It's only going to be used for drift and track

So far The mods are

Engine:

Gt35/40 .63

6boost

50mm pro gate

Greddy plenum (original)

750cc injectors

Vh45 tb

Hybrid fmic

Alloy radiator

Microtech lt12s

Spitfire coilpacks

Suspention:

Tein ha coilovers

Adjustable

rear lower arms,

front lower arms,

Camber arms,

Rear toe arms

Hicas lock bar

And now I've just touched up the body and put a new front bar on

It's got a mixed matched bodykit but looks ok still

My plans are now to flare out the rear guards to suit some 17x10 +15 d1r's as I've got them on the front with wide guards and I think it will make the whole car look sexy

Then in near future il start looking for ideas on rollcages I'm pretty set on trackart cages ATM

Then build a rb27 or 3025

Few pics so far

70d9af4a.jpg

e66e1689.jpg

42b0c92e.jpg

ba1fec91.jpg

be122c8c.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404178-hixis-r33-drifttrack-project/
Share on other sites

Forgot to add that I fitted some rb26 covers that will hopefully let it breath a little better

Thinking about ideas on a return to sump catch can but where to put it and how there built in a way that they don't contaminate

I'm still unsure about

No idea Doesn't have any gauges so I'm only guessing the boost

The setup used to make 280 on 15psi with a 82 housing

I'm only wanting 300 safely unill the engines built

Thinking if using an exhaust cam

On the inlet and see if that makes a difference for now , and il just give it a quick dyno run to make sure everything's running well

I'm unsure what brand they are I baught them off abe2 who is a well known sau member and good bloke I might add

All I know is they used to be orange and there wide haha I can find out if u like though

No more work on the old 33 today as I was busy doing other bits and pieces just gave it a good degrease and wash

And and and ... I picked up a rb30 engine today so now I can spend my Nights researching rb25/30 builds oh the joy!

Sounds good mate, but your gonna find that diff pretty shit for drifting...,

I shimmed mine up till it almost couldn't fit back in the housing, was mad for a couple of weeks, but after that it just opened up again.

They might last longer on the street, but on the track they die pretty quick.

At the moment mines got a weldy in it to get me out of trouble until I can get my 2way sorted, and it is heaps better than shimming it... Just weld that sukka.

Wel see how it goes with the diff hopefully it will last a little bit as I want to

Focus on other bits

As for the guards il send Abe a pm for you

It absolutely pissed down with rain yesterday so I thought what a great day to pull down some old motors and get the base parts I wanted for my engine, now I just have to source the rest of the parts that il need (I've been told spool do a kit that's pretty well the best value for money)

If any of u guys know any other places that are cheap let me know :)

Rb25 head

c6d372e8.jpg

Rb30 block

71bec798.jpg

That's BS.... Save yourself a HEAP of money and build the 30. Honestly you'll need the extra grunt in that boat.

You have to buy a billet crank to go rb28 anyway????? If your going that far buy the rb32 kit form Nitto.

Just keep it simple.... so when it goes bang, you won't feel so bad.

Leave the head alone, throw a set of rods and pistons at a 30 block, get a decent oil pump and sump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...