Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Have Just finished painting and re assembling Cam Covers/ Rocker covers ect ect.

Got new CAS collars and Rubber grommet and reinstalled and kicked it over. Started good.

The CAS was put back in original position so bolts in the centre (Took Photos Prior to Disassembly) on all 3.

Thought i would check the timing so went out bought a Timing light.

1st Go : (Disconnected AAC valve or whatever its called under Plenum)

Hooked timing light up to battery and the other end to the 2 Black wires on the First coil/Spark Plug closest to Cam Gears.

Checked the marks on the Balancer and they were no where to be seen! (You Could Just make out the 30 Degree mark!) Probably like sitting 60+ if there was a mark! Turned of!

2nd Go : Loosened CAS and adjusted Clockwise bout half the distance. Getting Closer.

3rd Go : Fully Clockwise and its pretty spot on 20 Deg.

Bit of history. Car had a Timing belt/water pump ect (100K service) end of 2009. SInce that service I've put 75 klm ( yes only that much!) on it over 2 yrs!

Did the mechanic adjust it wrong or cam belt/gears put on wrong or something???

I have Power FC and its saying its at 20 Degrees at idle but prior to change it still said it was 20 so it must just adjust itself?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404249-rb-26-timing-questions/
Share on other sites

PowerFC assumes 20 degrees, it has no way of confirming (since cam timing is mechanical not electrical) what the base timing currently is set to.

What could have happened was the mechanic wrongly used 15 degrees (RB25s) instead of 20 degrees (RB26s) when setting the cam timing, and made things worse by using the wire loop at the back of the engine with a cheap timing light.

If you have to fully set the CAS to one side to get it even close to the desired base timing, then you have a tooth out somewhere.

I have yet to see anyone put a bloody timing belt on properly these days.

Mechanics don't give a shit, they just slap the belts on, tooth out or not. They don't care, because when you get it back, you pay them and that's all they want. As long as you can drive away, they don't give a shit of the job is done properly or not.

Hooked timing light up to battery and the other end to the 2 Black wires on the First coil/Spark Plug closest to Cam Gears.

What two black wires are you referring to? There is only one trigger wire per coil.

Try using the loop down to the back of the engine, and if you still get a high reading turn around the pick up of the timing light other way around in the loop. If you are using the trigger wire for no. 1 at the coil, again turn around the pick up of the timing light the other way around if its reading too high.

If all fails, get a ignition lead and put it from coil pack 1 to plug and put the pick up around that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...