Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Have Just finished painting and re assembling Cam Covers/ Rocker covers ect ect.

Got new CAS collars and Rubber grommet and reinstalled and kicked it over. Started good.

The CAS was put back in original position so bolts in the centre (Took Photos Prior to Disassembly) on all 3.

Thought i would check the timing so went out bought a Timing light.

1st Go : (Disconnected AAC valve or whatever its called under Plenum)

Hooked timing light up to battery and the other end to the 2 Black wires on the First coil/Spark Plug closest to Cam Gears.

Checked the marks on the Balancer and they were no where to be seen! (You Could Just make out the 30 Degree mark!) Probably like sitting 60+ if there was a mark! Turned of!

2nd Go : Loosened CAS and adjusted Clockwise bout half the distance. Getting Closer.

3rd Go : Fully Clockwise and its pretty spot on 20 Deg.

Bit of history. Car had a Timing belt/water pump ect (100K service) end of 2009. SInce that service I've put 75 klm ( yes only that much!) on it over 2 yrs!

Did the mechanic adjust it wrong or cam belt/gears put on wrong or something???

I have Power FC and its saying its at 20 Degrees at idle but prior to change it still said it was 20 so it must just adjust itself?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404249-rb-26-timing-questions/
Share on other sites

PowerFC assumes 20 degrees, it has no way of confirming (since cam timing is mechanical not electrical) what the base timing currently is set to.

What could have happened was the mechanic wrongly used 15 degrees (RB25s) instead of 20 degrees (RB26s) when setting the cam timing, and made things worse by using the wire loop at the back of the engine with a cheap timing light.

If you have to fully set the CAS to one side to get it even close to the desired base timing, then you have a tooth out somewhere.

I have yet to see anyone put a bloody timing belt on properly these days.

Mechanics don't give a shit, they just slap the belts on, tooth out or not. They don't care, because when you get it back, you pay them and that's all they want. As long as you can drive away, they don't give a shit of the job is done properly or not.

Hooked timing light up to battery and the other end to the 2 Black wires on the First coil/Spark Plug closest to Cam Gears.

What two black wires are you referring to? There is only one trigger wire per coil.

Try using the loop down to the back of the engine, and if you still get a high reading turn around the pick up of the timing light other way around in the loop. If you are using the trigger wire for no. 1 at the coil, again turn around the pick up of the timing light the other way around if its reading too high.

If all fails, get a ignition lead and put it from coil pack 1 to plug and put the pick up around that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
    • As above, replace as many as you can afford. If anything, due to old age.
    • Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
×
×
  • Create New...