Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 6 months later...
Buy them from Crows Nest Nissan - I would go for the genuine part over any aftermarket cheaper alternatives.

I have a horrible feeling my wallet is going to suddenly be a lot lighter :D Does anyone have a cheap source in Japan (for Nissan originals)?

Lucien.

I have a horrible feeling my wallet is going to suddenly be a lot lighter :cheers:  Does anyone have a cheap source in Japan (for Nissan originals)?

Lucien.

you might be surprised, i have found that often genuine parts are pretty reasonably priced.

but then again, sometimes they are not.....

did u end up getting a price yet?

PM me when you do...

No, unfortunately. Between organising a groupbuy of PFCs, life in general, and then my dog needing emergency surgery, window seals took a back seat. I will try to get around to it tomorrow and let you know.

Lucien.

Hi Guys,

I finally got a chance to check some pricing. Here goes:

Front Windscreen Outer Moulding (Kit):

Part Code: 72810

Part Number: 72750-04U10 or 72750-04U60 (one is superceeded):

fast-frontwindscreen.png

Price: ~$175 (SAU NSW Club Members ONLY)

Rear Windscreen Outer Moulding (Kit):

Part Code: 79810

Part Number: 79750-04U10:

fast-rearwindscreen.png

Price: ~$461 (SAU NSW Club Members ONLY)

Door Seal (Driver's Side; on chassis not door):

Part Code: 76921R

Part Number: 76921-04U00:

fast-doorseal.png

Price: ~$41 (SAU NSW Club Members ONLY)

I am waiting for Troy @ Crows Nest Nissan to confirm availability and the prices listed. He has been very helpful, so big thumbs up for him.

I must say the front windscreen moulding and door seal seem very reasonable (well, considering its through Nissan Aus), but that rear windscreen moulding seems ridiculously expensive: is Nissan making them out of gold or something? :)

A few other notes: I imagine the price for a passanger side seal is the same, though I didn't check. To be clear, this is the seal that sits on the chassis, and runs around where the door and window meet the chassis, as opposed to the seal that sits on the door.

Hope that's of some help to people.

Lucien.

I have no idea what the driver / passenger chassis seal thingy would be...

What do you mean? There is a seal that runs around the inside of the door area on the chassis: up the B-pillar, across the top, then down the a-pillar. Its 76921R in the diagram.

if it's the rubber thingy which usually has cracks from the doors then count me in for a new set

Its this I believe:

doorseal.jpg

Its a standard price for an SAU NSW Club member, such just give Troy a buzz. Alternatively, wait a few days till I get mine and I can say if its the same thing as in the above pic :D

LW.

lol $55 to join the club, start saving on parts :(http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=44115

Exactly: pays for itself.

Only problem is that its not exactly obvious how to join the club: I have already had two people ask me in a day. Could PranK modify the front webpage with some links to information about joining the various state clubs?

I got a call from Troy saying my driver's side window seal and GT-R key are already in. How's that for service: less than 24 hours!

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...