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Diy M35 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

WAGON_BOY
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WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
Posted

I didn't find a DIY on here for front wheel bearings so i thought i would post a guide as to how to do it.

the replacement part is number 8 in this diagram and can be purchaced through http://justjap.com/ for about $240 each.

Part number is 40210-AL800.

and thanks to Jetwreck for the diagram.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=304447

details will be up next and the tools required for the job.

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
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OK the tools u will need are either spanners or sockets in sizes: 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm 22mm and 32mm

I suggest a big breaker bar or if you have it a rattle gun. Also you will need a ball joint puller (well really its a pusher LOL).

Some long nosed pliers to take out the split pins and a rubber mallet.

Step 1: jack the car up and pull the wheels off.

Step 2: you will need to turn the wheels to gain access to the bolts from the callipers which are 22mm, then proceed to take the calliper off (also you might want to undo the 12mm bolt holding the brake line on the strut for more length) and then u'll have to get that rubber mallet out and bash off the disc.

Step 3: take off the steering rack limiter (2x 14mm bolts) on the strut to gain access to the ball joint as to get a puller in there to pop out the steering arm. (you will need the puller as its bloody tight even trying to prop it up and then smash the crap out of it with a rubber mallet didnt work ** note when tapping all the studs out keep the nuts on there so u dont damage the threads)

Step 4: carefully remove the sensor from the strut it is also glued in there so be careful not to damage it whilst prying it off, then hang it up out of the way not to get damaged.

Step 5: undo the remainder of the bolts there will be 2x 19mm on the bottom and the 17mm on the top by the A arm, once they are all knocked out and loose also undo the 32mm bolt holding the hub on the axel. then give it a tap with the hammer to get it loose but dont knock it in more than 25mm / an inch.

once its all loose you might want a hand to carefully pull the entire arm/strut out of there taking particular care with the axel and the part the sensor reads because u dont want to damage that!!!

then once its out u can either push the bearings out yourself but i prefur to take it to a pro and get that done by them as they have the proper tools.

post-83704-0-80322600-1342075428_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-05916500-1342075494_thumb.jpg

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So Guys its really not that hard at all just involves a bit of time depending how seized stuff is but basically anyone can do it if they have the tools then all you have to do is get the old and new bearings pressed in and away you go.

also a side not when your putting back in the steering arm you might need to apply a bit of presher with a jack from underneath as to stop it from spinning when u go to tighten up the nut.

so anyways i hope this helps everyone out.

post-83704-0-26984700-1342075801_thumb.jpg

Edited by WAGON_BOY
Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Nice work Theo.

Not how I do it but still nice work.

I just drop the bolt off the top of the arm off and rattle the main axel bolt off rather than removing the whole arm.

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted (edited)

You don't need to remove the upright li k as you did. Just remove the hub/bearing separate from the upright link and take that in to get the bearing pressed out/in.

Also I don't bother with a ball joint puller. Just leave the nut on a couple turns and use a rubber mallet and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint and out she pops. Normally only takes one whack.

Just a heads up for guys doing it then selves and they don't have a ball joint puller.

Edited by slippylotion
WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nice work Theo.

Not how I do it but still nice work.

I just drop the bolt off the top of the arm off and rattle the main axel bolt off rather than removing the whole arm.

ok doing it that way u get access to the 4 bolts holding the hub/bearing doesnt that need to be pressed out or could've i just whacked it out with the mallet?

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You don't need to remove the upright li k as you did. Just remove the hub/bearing separate from the upright link and take that in to get the bearing pressed out/in.

Also I don't bother with a ball joint puller. Just leave the nut on a couple turns and use a rubber mallet and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint and out she pops. Normally only takes one whack.

Just a heads up for guys doing it then selves and they don't have a ball joint puller.

mine were locked in good i couldn't whack it out............ but i had a puller anyways so might aswell use it

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

ok doing it that way u get access to the 4 bolts holding the hub/bearing doesnt that need to be pressed out or could've i just whacked it out with the mallet?

Mine where really tight....couple of beers and a good pull got it done.

Lolz....just read that back.....IMHO need for an edit! :P

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