Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah that's right 89cal these boys are trying to tell me that a 02 can't cause a lean mixture and you yourself no they can but most the time they cause a rich mixture I've seen it right In front of my very own eyes I've even got a damaged 02 sensor with my right now that I can 100 % prove with make a rb26 run lean

Yes cause it reads way out of limits and runs lean mate I've tried as well :) you no yourself they can cause a lean mixture when cruising simple as that I'm Finished thanks for that

Edited by Hot33r8723

No I'm telling you it wont run lean enough to melt things. It wont let it go over 15.4ish:1 AFR till the ECU takes over and pulls it back.

I'm not sure how the GTR's work but I'm guessing 1 O2 sensor for each 3 cylinders, so you may end up having it drive weird at cruise or fouling plugs in 3 cylinders, but I honestly dont think it could run lean enough to melt things

I run 15.7:1 AFR's at cruise with no issues. Some days they even get up around 16:1 for whatever reason, and my engine is fine.

I think your problem might have been your fuel pump as originally thought....

Yeah gtr one sensor for 3 cylinders and if your air flow meters resistance is out of whack as well as a damaged 02 put them together and watch them

Front 3 fry away but hey 89cal your the first person ive spoken to that actually no what there talking about an yeah I never believed the o2 would cause a lean mixture I always thought rich cause it throws a code to the ecu an depending on how your afm reads Aswell can cook cylinders

Yeah gtr one sensor for 3 cylinders and if your air flow meters resistance is out of whack as well as a damaged 02 put them together and watch them

Front 3 fry away but hey 89cal your the first person ive spoken to that actually no what there talking about an yeah I never believed the o2 would cause a lean mixture I always thought rich cause it throws a code to the ecu an depending on how your afm reads Aswell can cook cylinders

Not exactly. The 02 sensors signals are halved by the ecu. Not 1 afm per 3 cylinders.

And with the 02 sensors im pretty sure the factory ecu is batch fire so it cant physically lean out cylinders unless and injector is playing up

But any way I've got a Walbro 255 now it's a bit loud in the back end what u think about the direct feed mod do you think it's

Worth it

Definately worth it. Wen u see the flow gauge before and after a rewire it the flow goes off the gauge when rewired

Definately worth it. Wen u see the flow gauge before and after a rewire it the flow goes off the gauge when rewired

Is there any real benefit in doing this with a Nismo/Tomei fuel pump?

Been thinking about doing this for a while but not real sure if its worth it

Each airflow controls each 3 cylinders I don't know about the other pumps

How can the AFM's control each three cylinders when the intake joins into one pipe before it gets to the intake manifold?

Air metered through turbo 1 joins with the air metered through turbo 2 after the intercooler, so air from turbo 1 doesnt necessarily go to cylinders 1-3, it equally spreads between all 6

So what if I run the stock wiring and don't do the direct feed mod ???? The pump wouldn't run at full capacity right ? But a Walbro needs minimum 12 volts and there's a voltage regulator that ups the voltage when revs are raised about 3000 grand right ? So the pump would be working overtime doing the direct feed mod and as Walbro says minimum voltage 12 volts and the specs of the pump would have been tested minimum 12 voltage other wise Walbro would look ridiculous for making fake claims the best thing to do is purchase a hot wire earth kit for your whole car not just up the voltage to the pump

How can the AFM's control each three cylinders when the intake joins into one pipe before it gets to the intake manifold?

Air metered through turbo 1 joins with the air metered through turbo 2 after the intercooler, so air from turbo 1 doesnt necessarily go to cylinders 1-3, it equally spreads between all 6

Nah man ur 100% wrong :rolleyes: ...... Sarcasm

On a rb26 the airflow meters are before the turbos mate senses the air

Flowing through the front of each turbo and signals is sent back to the ecu telling the ecu how

Much air is flowing into each turbo and each 3 cylinders I work for tony rigioly mate

On a rb26 the airflow meters are before the turbos mate senses the air

Flowing through the front of each turbo and signals is sent back to the ecu telling the ecu how

Much air is flowing into each turbo and each 3 cylinders I work for tony rigioly mate

Both turbo's end up flowing air to the one point. There is one intake manifold that joins all 6 cylinders

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...