Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the moment i'm on 86,000KM on my V35, i was curious if anyone has got their 100 thou service done through Nissan before and how much did it cost you? I'm considering sourcing all the parts i need and only paying for labour but has anyone actually left the entire service for Nissan or someone else to do? Just thought i'd get prepared for the big service although my car seems to be running fine.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404908-100000-v-service/
Share on other sites

find a reputable mechanic to do it. Nissan will rip you off big time no matter which way you look at it and I doubt they will allow you to supply parts as this will no doubt void any warranty on "their" service.

Yeah figured that Nissans good at doing that aren't they.

what are you expecting to change at the 100k kms service?

Well i've just replaced my belt that controls air con alternator battery etc and clutch/brake fluid so basically anything else that needs doing. I don't have much of an idea as to what needs doing that can be called "major" though.

86,000 K's? I think your odometer may have had it's service already. :P

What do you mean? I bought the car at 80,000 and it hadn't been serviced for a while the guy had pretty much done it himself but i don't know what he's done so i'm iffy about it :/

The 100k is generally a term for cars with CamBELTS (not chains). It was always the old interval to change them. In recent years on newer cars, some manufacturers will go to 150k kms on a cam belt or X years.

Since you don't have a cam belt to change there is really nothing out of the ordinary about a 100k kms service.

When servicing, its a combination of -

Engine oil and filter

Air filter

Brake fluid / bleed

gearbox/transmission oil/ fluid

Differential fluid

Engine coolant

Brake pads and discs as required

interior / cabin air filter

Ancillary belts as required

Spark plugs are 100k km items

in tank Fuel filter

anything else I forgot

If you don't know when last done or have no record then its a good idea to change and record it.

I did mine last week,all fluids and filters, spark plugs, new pads. I bought all the parts before I had the car in, cost me $500 in labour but that's also including installing a plenum spacer lol. My mechanic is also a friend of mine so I don't mind paying a little extra for the peace of mind knowing everything is done the way i want it while chatting with him when he's working on the car. If you car is an Auto you MUST only use OEM Nissan transmission oil (Matic J) and if you are unsure when your trans oil was last serviced I wouldn't recommend flushing it IMO. I'm not too sure on the coolant whether it has to be the OEM antifreeze, but i used that just to make sure...maybe someone can clarify this.

Thanks for that Alex, good to know nothing major needs to be done. I can basically do all of that from my garage.

Kevin, i have a manual but yes that is good for you! too bad there are no reputible mechanics in my town :/

If you car is an Auto you MUST only use OEM Nissan transmission oil (Matic J) and if you are unsure when your trans oil was last serviced I wouldn't recommend flushing it IMO. I'm not too sure on the coolant whether it has to be the OEM antifreeze, but i used that just to make sure...maybe someone can clarify this.

Nulon synthetic trans fluid is fine, just don't use dextron III, it will slip and ruin your clutch plates. Back flushing is a good idea, as is dropping the pan and cleaning the filter if you are keen.

Mixing antifreeze is a bad idea, but who knows what is in your cooling system now... I would flush it a few times with water and drain it completely, (the block drain plug is a pain to get to) then refill with a decent off the shelf coolant.

i've noticed with the auto-trans fluid. i used one of the nulon trans fluids on my previous change after i first took delivery of the car, after that the changes semmed a bit jerky to me. but after replacing it with the matic-j. its alot smoother than its ever been.

mabye its just me. but i'd stick to the genuine nissan stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...