Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys this one is for all the peps that know about the RB26DETT, i just bought a R34 GTR a few weeks ago and last night noticed a noise that started when i was in lower gears under power, i was able to record it thismorning and have uploaded it. Some friends think it is lifters. The oil needs to be changed so i have bought some lifter addative and injector addative also, if anyone can ID the cause of this would help alot or even give me a place to start.

The car drives fine also, hits all gear shifts comes on boost, it is allso factor stock besides suspension and exhaust.

Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiqNhzqfGEM&feature=youtu.be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405289-r34-gtr-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh i did, had nissan in tasie go over the car, they pulled off the turbos did a compression test, all came up good, the onlythings they found was diff pinion seal needed to be replaced and also weaping sump, oil pressure is fine and oil is full, it is rather black tho so this is y im gettihng it changed tomorrow and adding the lifter addative.

I don't think your lifter additive will do anything. Reason being, and more knowledgeable people will correct me if I'm wrong, but lifter treatment is traditionally for motors with hydraulic lifters that suffer build up of contaminants. The RB26 having solid lifters cannot suffer the same problem. The lifters can need re-shimming if out of spec, the hydraulic ones are self clearenced.

Does it rise and lower with Revs, or road speed?

Could be a number of bad things unfortunately.... hope its something more simple

if its done im going to have to sell it cheap and just by something for 10k and cut my losses i think, its my daily to and from work w/o a car i cant get to work.

That sux man, but now you know why they say, if you buy a gtr you better make sure you have enough money to buy another one (implying a engine rebuild)

i would have thought if it was a big end or blown engine that the noise would have been there the whole time and not just when i accelerate in 1st and 2nd, and over 3k rpm in 3rd the noise is gone alltogeather.

yeh 3 months and i would have the cash to rebuild it but getting to work is a real pig without a car.

Edited by T4NK

I remember writing this....

On your number one point, no its not hard. Just expect to reach deep into your pockets. If you can do work yourself, and do some research into it, Rather than just taking whatever is in a kit, then it works out much cheaper.

Remember, gtrs have their failings too. You might go get one, and spin a bearing in your first week. Hello 8k basic rebuild.

Cost for cost, once and engine rebuild is taken into account the V will not disgrace itself against a gtr in a straight line. It doesn't have the benefit of awd, but it is also more comfortable and easier to drive IMO. And you'll never end up with oil in the rockers in a vq!

Terrible luck mate....

Don't sell it though, to move a car like that in the time frame you need to get another car, you'll be looking at getting 20-30k if your lucky I would think..

Maybe diagnosis it, if bad, buy a crapper then save for the rebuild...

Fingers crossed mate...

Hey mate sorry to hear about the car. This is my biggest fear, im currently looking for a 34 gtr and would be in the same boat as you if I bought one and this happened. I keep reading peoples posts about this happening so often with their GTRs and it kinda got me thinking of just buying a 32 gtr, that way i would have enough money for a rebuild.

If you dont mind me asking where did you get the car from and how much did you pay?? You can PM me if you dont want to post it here. Cheers.

Hopefully you get some good news from the mechanic but with my limited knowledge this sounds pretty serious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...