Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys this one is for all the peps that know about the RB26DETT, i just bought a R34 GTR a few weeks ago and last night noticed a noise that started when i was in lower gears under power, i was able to record it thismorning and have uploaded it. Some friends think it is lifters. The oil needs to be changed so i have bought some lifter addative and injector addative also, if anyone can ID the cause of this would help alot or even give me a place to start.

The car drives fine also, hits all gear shifts comes on boost, it is allso factor stock besides suspension and exhaust.

Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiqNhzqfGEM&feature=youtu.be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405289-r34-gtr-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh i did, had nissan in tasie go over the car, they pulled off the turbos did a compression test, all came up good, the onlythings they found was diff pinion seal needed to be replaced and also weaping sump, oil pressure is fine and oil is full, it is rather black tho so this is y im gettihng it changed tomorrow and adding the lifter addative.

I don't think your lifter additive will do anything. Reason being, and more knowledgeable people will correct me if I'm wrong, but lifter treatment is traditionally for motors with hydraulic lifters that suffer build up of contaminants. The RB26 having solid lifters cannot suffer the same problem. The lifters can need re-shimming if out of spec, the hydraulic ones are self clearenced.

Does it rise and lower with Revs, or road speed?

Could be a number of bad things unfortunately.... hope its something more simple

if its done im going to have to sell it cheap and just by something for 10k and cut my losses i think, its my daily to and from work w/o a car i cant get to work.

That sux man, but now you know why they say, if you buy a gtr you better make sure you have enough money to buy another one (implying a engine rebuild)

i would have thought if it was a big end or blown engine that the noise would have been there the whole time and not just when i accelerate in 1st and 2nd, and over 3k rpm in 3rd the noise is gone alltogeather.

yeh 3 months and i would have the cash to rebuild it but getting to work is a real pig without a car.

Edited by T4NK

I remember writing this....

On your number one point, no its not hard. Just expect to reach deep into your pockets. If you can do work yourself, and do some research into it, Rather than just taking whatever is in a kit, then it works out much cheaper.

Remember, gtrs have their failings too. You might go get one, and spin a bearing in your first week. Hello 8k basic rebuild.

Cost for cost, once and engine rebuild is taken into account the V will not disgrace itself against a gtr in a straight line. It doesn't have the benefit of awd, but it is also more comfortable and easier to drive IMO. And you'll never end up with oil in the rockers in a vq!

Terrible luck mate....

Don't sell it though, to move a car like that in the time frame you need to get another car, you'll be looking at getting 20-30k if your lucky I would think..

Maybe diagnosis it, if bad, buy a crapper then save for the rebuild...

Fingers crossed mate...

Hey mate sorry to hear about the car. This is my biggest fear, im currently looking for a 34 gtr and would be in the same boat as you if I bought one and this happened. I keep reading peoples posts about this happening so often with their GTRs and it kinda got me thinking of just buying a 32 gtr, that way i would have enough money for a rebuild.

If you dont mind me asking where did you get the car from and how much did you pay?? You can PM me if you dont want to post it here. Cheers.

Hopefully you get some good news from the mechanic but with my limited knowledge this sounds pretty serious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...