Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys this one is for all the peps that know about the RB26DETT, i just bought a R34 GTR a few weeks ago and last night noticed a noise that started when i was in lower gears under power, i was able to record it thismorning and have uploaded it. Some friends think it is lifters. The oil needs to be changed so i have bought some lifter addative and injector addative also, if anyone can ID the cause of this would help alot or even give me a place to start.

The car drives fine also, hits all gear shifts comes on boost, it is allso factor stock besides suspension and exhaust.

Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiqNhzqfGEM&feature=youtu.be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405289-r34-gtr-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh i did, had nissan in tasie go over the car, they pulled off the turbos did a compression test, all came up good, the onlythings they found was diff pinion seal needed to be replaced and also weaping sump, oil pressure is fine and oil is full, it is rather black tho so this is y im gettihng it changed tomorrow and adding the lifter addative.

I don't think your lifter additive will do anything. Reason being, and more knowledgeable people will correct me if I'm wrong, but lifter treatment is traditionally for motors with hydraulic lifters that suffer build up of contaminants. The RB26 having solid lifters cannot suffer the same problem. The lifters can need re-shimming if out of spec, the hydraulic ones are self clearenced.

Does it rise and lower with Revs, or road speed?

Could be a number of bad things unfortunately.... hope its something more simple

if its done im going to have to sell it cheap and just by something for 10k and cut my losses i think, its my daily to and from work w/o a car i cant get to work.

That sux man, but now you know why they say, if you buy a gtr you better make sure you have enough money to buy another one (implying a engine rebuild)

i would have thought if it was a big end or blown engine that the noise would have been there the whole time and not just when i accelerate in 1st and 2nd, and over 3k rpm in 3rd the noise is gone alltogeather.

yeh 3 months and i would have the cash to rebuild it but getting to work is a real pig without a car.

Edited by T4NK

I remember writing this....

On your number one point, no its not hard. Just expect to reach deep into your pockets. If you can do work yourself, and do some research into it, Rather than just taking whatever is in a kit, then it works out much cheaper.

Remember, gtrs have their failings too. You might go get one, and spin a bearing in your first week. Hello 8k basic rebuild.

Cost for cost, once and engine rebuild is taken into account the V will not disgrace itself against a gtr in a straight line. It doesn't have the benefit of awd, but it is also more comfortable and easier to drive IMO. And you'll never end up with oil in the rockers in a vq!

Terrible luck mate....

Don't sell it though, to move a car like that in the time frame you need to get another car, you'll be looking at getting 20-30k if your lucky I would think..

Maybe diagnosis it, if bad, buy a crapper then save for the rebuild...

Fingers crossed mate...

Hey mate sorry to hear about the car. This is my biggest fear, im currently looking for a 34 gtr and would be in the same boat as you if I bought one and this happened. I keep reading peoples posts about this happening so often with their GTRs and it kinda got me thinking of just buying a 32 gtr, that way i would have enough money for a rebuild.

If you dont mind me asking where did you get the car from and how much did you pay?? You can PM me if you dont want to post it here. Cheers.

Hopefully you get some good news from the mechanic but with my limited knowledge this sounds pretty serious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...