Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys this one is for all the peps that know about the RB26DETT, i just bought a R34 GTR a few weeks ago and last night noticed a noise that started when i was in lower gears under power, i was able to record it thismorning and have uploaded it. Some friends think it is lifters. The oil needs to be changed so i have bought some lifter addative and injector addative also, if anyone can ID the cause of this would help alot or even give me a place to start.

The car drives fine also, hits all gear shifts comes on boost, it is allso factor stock besides suspension and exhaust.

Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiqNhzqfGEM&feature=youtu.be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405289-r34-gtr-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh i did, had nissan in tasie go over the car, they pulled off the turbos did a compression test, all came up good, the onlythings they found was diff pinion seal needed to be replaced and also weaping sump, oil pressure is fine and oil is full, it is rather black tho so this is y im gettihng it changed tomorrow and adding the lifter addative.

I don't think your lifter additive will do anything. Reason being, and more knowledgeable people will correct me if I'm wrong, but lifter treatment is traditionally for motors with hydraulic lifters that suffer build up of contaminants. The RB26 having solid lifters cannot suffer the same problem. The lifters can need re-shimming if out of spec, the hydraulic ones are self clearenced.

Does it rise and lower with Revs, or road speed?

Could be a number of bad things unfortunately.... hope its something more simple

if its done im going to have to sell it cheap and just by something for 10k and cut my losses i think, its my daily to and from work w/o a car i cant get to work.

That sux man, but now you know why they say, if you buy a gtr you better make sure you have enough money to buy another one (implying a engine rebuild)

i would have thought if it was a big end or blown engine that the noise would have been there the whole time and not just when i accelerate in 1st and 2nd, and over 3k rpm in 3rd the noise is gone alltogeather.

yeh 3 months and i would have the cash to rebuild it but getting to work is a real pig without a car.

Edited by T4NK

I remember writing this....

On your number one point, no its not hard. Just expect to reach deep into your pockets. If you can do work yourself, and do some research into it, Rather than just taking whatever is in a kit, then it works out much cheaper.

Remember, gtrs have their failings too. You might go get one, and spin a bearing in your first week. Hello 8k basic rebuild.

Cost for cost, once and engine rebuild is taken into account the V will not disgrace itself against a gtr in a straight line. It doesn't have the benefit of awd, but it is also more comfortable and easier to drive IMO. And you'll never end up with oil in the rockers in a vq!

Terrible luck mate....

Don't sell it though, to move a car like that in the time frame you need to get another car, you'll be looking at getting 20-30k if your lucky I would think..

Maybe diagnosis it, if bad, buy a crapper then save for the rebuild...

Fingers crossed mate...

Hey mate sorry to hear about the car. This is my biggest fear, im currently looking for a 34 gtr and would be in the same boat as you if I bought one and this happened. I keep reading peoples posts about this happening so often with their GTRs and it kinda got me thinking of just buying a 32 gtr, that way i would have enough money for a rebuild.

If you dont mind me asking where did you get the car from and how much did you pay?? You can PM me if you dont want to post it here. Cheers.

Hopefully you get some good news from the mechanic but with my limited knowledge this sounds pretty serious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...