R34 Gtr Engine Noise

[wedge_r34gtr]

i think it really comes down what your block looks like - if you bores are fine, keep the stock pistons - just replace the rings etc. But if you got scarring and sh*t on the bore, then you may want consider a bore out to 86.5mm which will mean A/m pistons.

You've mentioned you want to keep it reliable - although it may cost a bit more, doing a little extra then what your've got listed should give you a fairly bullet proof engine.

are you pulling the engine out before you sent it to the shop or are you getting the workshop to do everything?

[N1GTR]

This thread has gone from bad to worse.

Now it's up to not using .20thou pistons to save money? Bore and hone is $180!!!! Oversized pistons are the same cost as stock sized.

Would you like to do it once correctly and have it last, or skimp on vital things and be wondering in 6 months why it's died again?

Just save your coin and take it to an RB shop who knows what they're doing, let them do what's needed and then pay the bill.

Edit: not trying to sound like an ass, just seen this happen before.....a lot

[N1GTR]

Also heres something to consider; there's now going to be tiny bits of bearing material throughout the oil, all of the oil.

So anywhere the oil goes (engine of course but oil cooler too), needs to be cleaned out properly. So cooler core and the part you may not have thought of yet, the head. A head service isn't a big deal while the engine is apart but it's like anything and not free.

If you just pull the engine out, pull the sump off, and try to swap bearings (you'll have to pull the crank out to machine it), then put it all back together the problem is you don't know how much bearing material is in the head waiting to wreck your day soon.

I'm happy to help as I have for others in this position but not if you won't allow it to be done properly the first time.

[wedge_r34gtr]

thanks steve - that was what i was alluding to

[T4NK]

Ok so my build has been confirmed and now i need to chose an oil pump.

my options are a N1 pump or a NItto Pump, what does everyone think?

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

I am getting a Nissan N1 pump for my build.

But that's just me staying with Nissan parts.

And it can handle the power you want for you build and a lot more if you decide to tune up for more power.

[Hadouken]

Ok so my build has been confirmed and now i need to chose an oil pump.

my options are a N1 pump or a NItto Pump, what does everyone think?

Not gonna listen to the big honchos?

Tomei oil pump !

[nomnomv8]

If you have the money go the Tomei or Nitto but as you mentioned cash is a slight issue atm so just go the N1. They are a good pump regardless of some of the things that you might read on the forum about them.

For your power goals it will be perfect and give you room to play with if you decide to down the track.

Ps dont forget your oil restrictor !

[Dahtone Racing]

No need for a big pump on a streeter just put good gears in the pump, sump baffles and the right restrictor, you'll save 2k in the process.

N1 is a backwards step IMO.

[dkbcleaner]

How is N1 pump a backward step? Comes standard in the nur spec gtr's

[DVS JEZ]

How is N1 pump a backward step? Comes standard in the nur spec gtr's

Because they have a very bad reputation of breaking and destroying motors

[nomnomv8]

I know of at least of 3 people running unmodified N1's in their big single Rb26 drift cars that see regular limiter bashing at high 300 - low 400kw and they do just fine.

Too many people are too quick to bag them out imo.

[T4NK]

The car is getting

CP Pistons

Manly Turbo tough rods 1000hp

Tomei Head gasket

Tomei Baffle pan

Mines Cam baffle

Tomei Oil restrictor

ACL bearings

studs

Tomei valve springs

Gates racing timeing belt kit

Gasket kit

probs more that i cant think of but thats the main guts of it. i will see how i go when it gets closer to it, its around about 1k more for the nitto pump if i can strech it out then ill bag that or go the N1 if i cant.

Edited August 1, 2012 by T4NK

[Hadouken]

Any reason your getting the gates belt over a nissan one?

Added noise for no benefit

[T4NK]

Yeh may be able to hear something other then my exhaust then.

[Hadouken]

Yeh may be able to hear something other then my exhaust then.

Oh, enjoy then

Id rather hear a beautiful exhaust than a whirring belt

[GTR-N1]

Only alterations might be Nismo belt and Nitto pump.

Ever seen a cutaway comparison of a N1 pump Vs Nitto?

I have an N1 oil pump. It's behaving itself.

My son's VS2 Nur has had its N1 pump changed to a Nitto just for precautionary reasons (by the previous owner).

[T4NK]

Yeh well i figure that i dont want this shit to happen again so nitto pump it is lol.

[wedge_r34gtr]

I know of at least of 3 people running unmodified N1's in their big single Rb26 drift cars that see regular limiter bashing at high 300 - low 400kw and they do just fine.

Too many people are too quick to bag them out imo.

My $0.02 - I think alot of it comes done to who builds the engine and how anal they are about bearing/general clearences/tolerences. I beleive Its the shock loading caused by excissive clearence between the colour and gears that cause the pumps to fatique crack and fail...This can happen in all pumps, but its more prenounced in the n1's & stockers due to the relative strength of the material (sintered metal vs say en24(or there abouts) for the nitto). One day, i'll sit down and run an FEA analyse on a few of the pump designs to show the weak points in the designs.

However, IMOH all pumps will work in the hands of a compentent engine builder. The tomei/nitto just offer an additional safety factor.

If you do go down the tomie/nitto route, i strongly recommend getting a sump extension to 8L and baffels installed to prevent oil starvation due to the higher pump flow rate.

[T4NK]

I have Tomei Sump baffle and a mines cam baffle going in, no sump extension tho, also an oil restrictor going in.