Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

get my coilovers tommorow - teins for my r33

for the rear does anyone know where the coller should sit so it just tucks a little bit of tire?

might be a long shot but i dont wana have to take them in and out to get it right

if i can get any help/tips as theyre coming out of a car which he wasnt aiming for fitment...

cheers!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405498-r33-coilovers-settings-tein/
Share on other sites

Just play around with it a bit man, adjusting height isn't too difficult so just play around with the settings and you'll find the right height ;)

On my 34 the standard setting sat at about 1.5-2cm above tires, so that may help?

Yeah that al depends on the type of Tein coilover.

When i got mine from Japan 2nd hand, i didnt touch them and just threw them straight in the car. lol. Turned out perfect for what i wanted.

The only way to get it perfect for you, is as was said, play around. I have Type HA, this was where they were set:

IMG00152-20101126-1750.jpg

And this is how it looks.

IMG_8630.jpg

So a very broad assumption, is wind em down an inch lower than mine are set and go from there lol. FYI, 330mm from center of wheel to lip of guards, F+R.

  • 4 weeks later...

Just thought id try posting here, when removing standard spring/shocks for coilovers do you need spring compressors? and does it matter which way the coilover faces? i have bc racing ones,

If there the ones i have, then lol i hope you enjoy a the bumps :P

I have mine set to the absolute limit on lowness for the rear ones and the fronts are about a quarter from the lowest, if you go too low on the front then obviously the tyres rub

also the stiffness adjustment i have mine on softest it will go on back and maybe 5-6turns on front, takes a while to find the right settings and hight and also tyre pressure will play a part too..

have fun... :yes:

You only need spring compressors if you intend to separate the spring from the shock. Given with a coilover install you are removing the whole unit as one piece no you don't need spring compressors.

You only need spring compressors if you intend to separate the spring from the shock. Given with a coilover install you are removing the whole unit as one piece no you don't need spring compressors.

cool thanks thats what i thought,

also other than the fronts needing the longer side facing outwards does it matter how the tops or rears are facing? or can they be rotated/installed either way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...