Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quite easily, setting your suspension up all stiff can work great on the track but can cause a car to duck,dip and dive all over a bumpy back road and quite easily throw you off the road..

That's why you buy decent suspension and not $1000 cheap rubbish stuff... So that it doesn't do that :)

End of the day as i said, a 240rwkw well setup car will be faster in every scenario (other than 1/4 mile drag endeavours) than a 300rwkw floating boat with stock everything else.

Sure John is mighty quick with his setup and 220kws but it has taken him 3 years and 3 cars to get to where he is. I also dont think you will hear him complain about the extra 40kws he now has on e85

And what does that tell you? :)

Given it's pretty much what i said on page one, just a shorter version (handling/learning to drive first - then power - works out cheaper in the long run).

You won't find the limit, if you don't go past it and that's one's own choice irrespective of power.

If you have more, you'll just want to go faster and push in the same instance (someone that pushes, will always do it), so it's not particularly really relevant.

full service and all fluids changed at a minimum (gearbox, diff, P/S etc)

radiator

clutch

diff

tyres

brakes

suspension

no point having 300rwkw if you cant;

1. turn corners with that power

2. stop the car with that power

IMO you really are going about it the wrong way. Handling and learning how to drive comes first, then comes the power. Things like a decent diff and suspension setup make so much difference it's hard to gauge "just how much" because it's more than just a number on a piece of paper.

And all the stock shit is realistically rubbish stock... so add another 140rwkw or so, just asking for trouble.

getting a stronger clutch and flywheel,

may need stronger coil packs and spark plugs aswell ?

gone over my budget but have to do whats needed so the engine doesnt fail

getting a stronger clutch and flywheel,

may need stronger coil packs and spark plugs aswell ?

gone over my budget but have to do whats needed so the engine doesnt fail

You might need coil packs, you won't know till you "get there" type thing. They might be ok, might not.

Plus, just normal coppers are more than fine

Ohk I got nkg iridiums . Mechanic said if they are 11m they might need to be shorter. Dont understand

Yeh you're gonna need a 0.8mm plug gap, possibly 0.6mm depending on how good your coilpacks are. The NGK Iridiums were a waste if they are 1.1mm, they can't be regapped.

Yeh you're gonna need a 0.8mm plug gap, possibly 0.6mm depending on how good your coilpacks are. The NGK Iridiums were a waste if they are 1.1mm, they can't be regapped.

Haha yea that would be right ..

Is it to suit the bigger injectors or something

Haha yea that would be right ..

Is it to suit the bigger injectors or something

Nah, to suit the boost really. At the power level you're aiming for, OEM-style coilpacks will struggle to give a strong enough spark for a 1.1mm gap; the spark is likely to blow out resulting in misfires. So you reduce the gap to avoid misfiring.

As Ash said, coppers would be more than ok, you can regap them, and they will only cost you around $20 for a set of 6.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...