Jump to content
SAU Community

Tips To Lower Vehicle Insurance Premium

kreitosune
 Share

Recommended Posts

kreitosune Rookie

kreitosune

Posted
Posted

Vehicle insurance premium rates play major role in determining how much it will cost a person to drive his car in every month. People often end up paying 10% more than what amount they should spend their vehicle insurance.

Are there any more tips to Lower Vehicle Insurance Premium ???? other than searching on Google!!!

Leroy Peterson Grand Master

Leroy Peterson

Posted
Posted

depends on who you're with.

I know Just Car dont care if you have an alarm system or immobiliser fitted. While a guy i know who is with Shannons has a garage and he chains/straps his cars down to the concrete floor to reduce his premium.

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

depends on who you're with.

I know Just Car dont care if you have an alarm system or immobiliser fitted. While a guy i know who is with Shannons has a garage and he chains/straps his cars down to the concrete floor to reduce his premium.

well they wont insure you with out an aus std 3 point immobiliser.

jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted (edited)

sadly lowering insurance premiums is largely pre-emptive.

Work out what it is going to cost before you purchase and use ur brain. Age and driving history are your two biggest equations, otherwise where u live does matter too.

Beyond that count on the premium rising over time, just like everything else in this world, and count on it rising alot if u f*k up and have to claim.

Now work out if u are comfortable with all this/able to afford that car and insurance.

Pretty simple.

I waited till i was 25 plus before getting a big sportsbike and 30+ before getting a sportscar.

Did i want one earlier? f*k yeah, of course. But did i realise it would have been damn stupid to get one then. Damn straight, so i didnt. I waited until it was a reasonable equation of costs as well as having the money to buy the vehicle outright n not put myself into debt over something unneccesary.

The amount of crew iv met with massive loans just to get a 'fully sik car' and then also having to pay 2k plus a year in insurance astounds me for a multitude of reasons.

Edited by jjman
sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

sadly lowering insurance premiums is largely pre-emptive.

Work out what it is going to cost before you purchase and use ur brain. Age and driving history are your two biggest equations, otherwise where u live does matter too.

Beyond that count on the premium rising over time, just like everything else in this world, and count on it rising alot if u f*k up and have to claim.

Now work out if u are comfortable with all this/able to afford that car and insurance.

Pretty simple.

I waited till i was 25 plus before getting a big sportsbike and 30+ before getting a sportscar.

Did i want one earlier? f*k yeah, of course. But did i realise it would have been damn stupid to get one then. Damn straight, so i didnt. I waited until it was a reasonable equation of costs as well as having the money to buy the vehicle outright n not put myself into debt over something unneccesary.

The amount of crew iv met with massive loans just to get a 'fully sik car' and then also having to pay 2k plus a year in insurance astounds me for a multitude of reasons.

Pretty sad when you let price of insurance stop you form getting the car/bike/anything you want.

Settle with fire and theft, not at fault you will get paid out no matter what. If its a weekend warrior and not driving in constanst heave traffic it would work im your favour.

Even if you do have full comp, SOme prick does a hit an run, Or there not even insured, Your still coughing up your excess to pay for it, ANd half the time the excess is double the price of the damage.

Nibibo Collaborator

Nibibo

Posted
Posted

Might aswell not have full comp to begin with, They dont and wont have to pay out if you dont disclose it.

Don't do that.....

If you get involved in an accident, you won't be covered because you broke the agreement.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Thinking outside the square, if some hobby of yours can viably become a profitable business, you're allowed a business car in most cases.

If so, your expenses including insurance, registration, modifications and fuel up to a certain percentage (depending on what you've logged as pertaining to business) becomes tax deductible.

Ideas bubbling up?

Precaution:- Unless your business plan is foolproof, lots of businesses might not survive in this climate.

Pity that Famous Insurance and Guild Insurance who used to insure grey imports, no longer do. Competition has become somewhat limited. ;)

SiNNO Experienced

SiNNO

Posted
Posted

Not really a tip, but the premiums are also largely based on the suburb where your car is kept.

Had an online quote for $2500 premium on my skyline a few years back, I decided to change it to a suburb that was about 15km's away, price was reduced by ~$800 lol.

nomnomv8 Rising Star

nomnomv8

Posted
Posted

Might aswell not have full comp to begin with, They dont and wont have to pay out if you dont disclose it.

Don't do that.....

If you get involved in an accident, you won't be covered because you broke the agreement.

In the case of an accident or claim it usually takes the assessor a few days to actually look at the car, thats after you have already dropped it off at a panel shop of your choice *hint hint*.

They arent exactly going to be opening up your engine and seeing wheather you have cams, gears, pistons, injectors, fuel pump etc modifed.. Secondly how hard is it to swap out a ecu and rip out a boost controller - 5 minute job? Coilovers?? And these are amongst the first things they look for. As long as your running low mounts (talking about GTR's in particular as even with upgraded turbos the most you can make out is an actuator whilst looking at the bay) you will be fine.

Might not be everyones cup of tea but thats my justification ;)

nick_7g Proficient

nick_7g

Posted
Posted

In the case of an accident or claim it usually takes the assessor a few days to actually look at the car, thats after you have already dropped it off at a panel shop of your choice *hint hint*.

They arent exactly going to be opening up your engine and seeing wheather you have cams, gears, pistons, injectors, fuel pump etc modifed.. Secondly how hard is it to swap out a ecu and rip out a boost controller - 5 minute job? Coilovers?? And these are amongst the first things they look for. As long as your running low mounts (talking about GTR's in particular as even with upgraded turbos the most you can make out is an actuator whilst looking at the bay) you will be fine.

Might not be everyones cup of tea but thats my justification ;)

Ridiculous. The risk/reward is off the charts bad. Save $500-1000, and risk losing $50-80k on the cost of your car, not to mention fraud if you're caught.

I'll stick with full disclosure.

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

Wouldnet go as far as calling it fraud, It just simply gives them a reason to to pay out, End of they day. They are a busines. They are there to make money and pay wages.

Fair enough theres a few things you can swap over in the event of something happening, But good luck swaping over coilovers if you been hit in any of the corners.....

What is the deal with using coilovers? They need to be welded so not ajustable to be legal?

The legality of them baffles me....

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

In the case of an accident or claim it usually takes the assessor a few days to actually look at the car, thats after you have already dropped it off at a panel shop of your choice *hint hint*.

They arent exactly going to be opening up your engine and seeing wheather you have cams, gears, pistons, injectors, fuel pump etc modifed.. Secondly how hard is it to swap out a ecu and rip out a boost controller - 5 minute job? Coilovers?? And these are amongst the first things they look for. As long as your running low mounts (talking about GTR's in particular as even with upgraded turbos the most you can make out is an actuator whilst looking at the bay) you will be fine.

Might not be everyones cup of tea but thats my justification ;)

Thats all well and good, but what happens when you are carted off to hospital for a week and the car gets towed straight to the insurance assessor's shop

big risk

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted

Females get cheaper insurance,

If your insured for more than one person do the policy in the wife's name, do an open policy where she is te insured but anyone can drive the car.

Market value allot of people pay or but don't realise this doesnt hold the agreed value afte a certain point so became full what your paying for.

Do a defensive driving course and let them know this might help.

If your old enough do a names driver policy or do restricted policy.

Upping your excess can lower the policy by the same amout so your ahead untillyou claim at whih point your no further behind.

Sometimes paying for a rating one pretection can lower your primium and obviously safeguard you if something does happen your not going to get raped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Archies Flame Grille Meet & Cruise to Kurnell

      By Matt Z · Posted

      Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...