Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Had my car dyno on saturday, i made 148rwkw with a stock rb20det with exhaust and FMIC, on stock boost, the guys who dyno the car thought it was way to high so checked out the dyno setup which was correct.

Does this sound right? I have the rb20det in my silvia and didn't bother checking the turbo before it was on. Do you think it is a stock turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys,

Had my car dyno on saturday, i made 148rwkw with a stock rb20det with exhaust and FMIC, on stock boost, the guys who dyno the car thought it was way to high so checked out the dyno setup which was correct.  

Does this sound right? I have the rb20det in my silvia and didn't bother checking the turbo before it was on. Do you think it is a stock turbo?

yeh this sounds right.

standard they are suppose to come with 210ps so it does equal around what you have got. next get the turbo and computer done.

my cuz did the same mods as you and the turbo/computur pulled 200rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/#findComment-833484
Share on other sites

most things i've read on mods to the r32 rb20det say that with the mods you have and also a rechipped ECU running 14psi should get around the 160rwkw mark?? are you shaw it was kws not hp as thats about the same reading?? i've been told that a vg30 turbo could get that kind of result but also with higher psi and tuning???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/#findComment-833872
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

210-215ps is around 160kw AT the Flywheel. Not rear wheels. :D

148rwkw (~200-210kw at the FLYwheel) with say 11-12psi (which is where it should be with an Exhaust) is around the mark.

With AFR's at 12:1 & a few more degree's of ignition timing mine made 152rwkw on 12psi. I would say your AFR's are not rich, which is bad as when you decide to pump more boost in the old fuel pump won't want to come to the party and you will lean out.

15psi only saw a 12rwkw increase as the turbo begins to heat the air more and runs out of efficiency.

With a tuned computer 170rwkw is around the maximum you will get.

200rwkw must have been a very optimistic high reading dyno. Most probably a Hub Dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/#findComment-1111272
Share on other sites

A turbo can only flow so many cfm's before it starts chopping and superheating the air.

What dyno was that 200rwkw pulled on? All bets are it wasn't ran in the correct shootout mode/temp sensor placed incorrectly or it was on a hub dyno. :D

Doesn't matter, Dyno's are only good as a base tuning tool.

Shootout mode tries to make it an even playing field.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/#findComment-1111391
Share on other sites

My RB20 did 137 rwkw with turbo back exhaust, pod and R33 turbo on stock boost and everything else stock. A/F ratio was 13 and it had a slight misfire.

After upgrading the fuel system it went down to 130 rwkw and a healthy 11.3 fuel ratio and no misfire.

This was on DynoDynamics dyno in shootout mode at Unigroup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/#findComment-1112085
Share on other sites

I just fitted a wolf 3d along with a front mount, pump, full exhaust etc and rolled 152rwkw on a roller. I've had it on a hub a few times and the numbers are CONSIDERABLY higher. Without the dump it was showing 176 rwkws (yeah.. right). Car is heaps faster on the road. Just looking at turbo upgrades now.... I'd like a real 200 - 210 rwkws.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/#findComment-1113142
Share on other sites

I just fitted a wolf 3d along with a front mount, pump, full exhaust etc and rolled 152rwkw on a roller. I've had it on a hub a few times and the numbers are CONSIDERABLY higher. Without the dump it was showing 176 rwkws (yeah.. right). Car is heaps faster on the road. Just looking at turbo upgrades now.... I'd like a real 200 - 210 rwkws.

Off topic but hey. How are you finding the wolf 3D? Is it the V4 and did you get the plug and play version?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40623-rb20det-148rwkw/#findComment-1113151
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...