Jump to content
SAU Community

!!!!Need An GOOD Priced Exhaust Shop For Fitting A Dump/Front Combo Pipe!!!!!!!!


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

Okay, I need peoples help I need a dump/front combo pipe fitted to my r33 gtst, most exhaust places say they can fit it no problem some are willing to charge me more since they aren’t sure of the time it will take etc, some exhaust shops say they have worked on r33's before lalalala and have done work for other performance shop, but I have had little things done by these (recommended places by performance workshops) and I have gone away with a product that I’m not happy with.

I need someone around this side of town (chadstone, dandenong etc) that:

- Knows R33 Skylines or skylines in general.

- Has fitted a dump/front pipe combo or something custom before.

- Has half decent prices (as long as the job gets done well).

- Not located on the otherside of town.

Any recommendations and possible names of people that have some knowledge and some good service, would be very grateful!!!!...unless someone has done it before and has the tools the get it done??

Thanks for your time. Cheers Rob

Guest RedLineGTR

Thanks for that meshmesh, if all else fails i will have to drive quite a bit from where i live, hopefully someone will have one around my area if not then i'll pack my picnic and have a drive to Campbellfield. Thanks for your post, Cheers Rob

Rob are you after a split dupe pipe / wastegate pipe pff the turbo? or do you already have one.

i believe the rb25 turbo has the wastegate flap in the dump pipe so you can only get a 3" flared pipe from the end of the cast section to the cat.

Until now ;) i have a friend who owns and exhaust shop and is designing custom split dump pipes with seperate wastegate pipe and the wastegate flap inside it. Hel also does turbo manifolds etc and is very good we send all our cars there and always happy customers :).

rob speak to me on msn if you don't understand what i just posted lol

or Call Exhaust Worx

97611124

Les is the owner there.

But its in Bayswater but you know all the good workshops are in the south /east / eastern suburbs :D

cheers

Guest RedLineGTR
Rob are you after a split dupe pipe / wastegate pipe pff the turbo? or do you already have one.

I already have one, i have looked at both but found the prices to be the main difference.

i believe the rb25 turbo has the wastegate flap in the dump pipe so you can only get a 3" flared pipe from the end of the cast section to the cat.

I have a flared pipe so to speak, the only split ones i have seen have been in stainless steel (worries about it cracking) and the price range was abit too high, the split dump even in mild steel would have good benifits as compaired to the flared one but, found a good price for this one and the split type dump wouldnt make too much of a difference in such mild modifications atm.

Until now :D i have a friend who owns and exhaust shop and is designing custom split dump pipes with seperate wastegate pipe and the wastegate flap inside it. Hel also does turbo manifolds etc and is very good we send all our cars there and always happy customers :).

Ah sweet, someone to talk to about some future projects etc and maybe get some prices.

rob speak to me on msn if you don't understand what i just posted lol

Nah i understand what your saying if i need anymore info i will msn you, at school atm ;)

Thanks for the reply :) :headspin:

Guest RedLineGTR
exhaust shop  

try Matt... Pushead got him to install his dump/front pipe combo.

matt dosent work their anymore..moved on somewhere...might go to DAALDER exh. in Box Hill but wasn't too confident in the conversation at hand.

well i can reccommentd:

Blinky's Brakes and Exhaust in Dandenong (sth gippsland highway)...

they did my and coco69's intercooler piping and gave me a price $300 cheaper than ice performance! trust me they are cheap and did a fantastic job.

Ask for stuart and tell him Warren sent you (the guy with the blue r32 that got his intercooelr piping done)

good luck!

PS my dad and i fitted my front/dump by driving onto car ramps and doing it fron there. hard work but free! another option if you are good with a spanner or two...

Guest RedLineGTR
Do it yourself and save $$$ Its just a coupla bolts and an oxy sensor. I watched mine be professionally installed (30 mins... if that) and was disgusted when I got the bill.

I have tried, but you need some specific sockets that are nice and thin, i had a look in a car store to see what they have, found some that would work but i would end up spending nearly the cost of the install itself. Cheers Rob

I have tried, but you need some specific sockets that are nice and thin, i had a look in a car store to see what they have, found some that would work but i would end up spending nearly the cost of the install itself. Cheers Rob

Thats the biggest argument for doing it yourself! Next time you need to install some hardware under the hood the tools will already be there and pay for themselves! If the tools are cheaper, you save money. Even if the tools are only $1 cheaper you're still going to save money (I mean to sound like a tight arse, I'm making a point). You'll also know with 100% certainty that the job has been done properly, and working on the car is fun!!! :cheers:

Guest RedLineGTR
Thats the biggest argument for doing it yourself! Next time you need to install some hardware under the hood the tools will already be there and pay for themselves! If the tools are cheaper, you save money. Even if the tools are only $1 cheaper you're still going to save money (I mean to sound like a tight arse, I'm making a point). You'll also know with 100% certainty that the job has been done properly, and working on the car is fun!!! :)

the way things a going i probably will :) (its all your fault :jk: ) when i was doing it myself i pretty much got all the bolts off except for 1-2 bolts which i couldnt reach. You’ve inspired me !!! lolz

Anyone need some dump/front pipes fitted by the way??? if i get mine on :) lolz

Guest RedLineGTR
be careful though...

we snapped a bolt goping into the turbo and had to drill it out - BIG pain in the ass!

thanks for the heads up, heard about that happening a little while back...when i tryed it myself sprayed some WD40 just in case and pretty much most of the bolts came off fine except the ones i couldnt get too :) Cheers Rob

my issue was:

tightening bolt... tightening bolt... tightening bolt... just one more turn... SNAP!

followed by abusive swearing!

but lucky it was the bolt that was easiest to access.

also because we drove the car up onto car ramps we could get to 3 bolts from the bottom REAL easy. might be worth a try.

good luck!

Waz.

Guest RedLineGTR
my issue was:  

tightening bolt... tightening bolt... tightening bolt... just one more turn... SNAP!  

followed by abusive swearing!

but lucky it was the bolt that was easiest to access.

also because we drove the car up onto car ramps we could get  to 3 bolts from the bottom REAL easy. might be worth a try.

good luck!

Waz.

Thanks man I really appreciate the info. Cheers Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...