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Rb25 Oil Pump / Service Questions


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The time has nearly come to put the final goodies on my car (3076 kit etc.)

And the time has arrived for my 100xxx service. Hence i have a few questions, the car is not a daily anymore and will be used once a month ish for spirited drives and i would like to start getting it to the track.

After researching timing belts, i am inclined to go with standard genuine timing belt to allow for stretch with heat in the motor.

As i live in tas and the heat is not the same as on the mainland, could i get away with running a n1 water pump? or is it worth saving the hassle of any problems and going new standard? it will only be revved to 7k. Or should i just put a better radiator in down the track?

Also, would it be worth going an n1 oil pump with the reimax gearset? Although I dont want to run into any oil problems as i am not pulling the engine out to put restrictors in the block or head drain etc. ( It will only cost me about $450 for pump and gearset new) although n1 doesnt flow to exessive? Just while everything is pulled apart it wouldn't be to much cost vs time to do this mod if it saves the engine down the line, but i haven't heard of many standard pumps fail. As it doesn't have a crank collar just thought the stronger gears might be a good precaution.

Also what oil should i run? 10w-40 full synthetic?

Thoughts on putting a catch can with return to sump?

Anything else you can think of that might prolong the engine would be great, keeping in mind i am a reasonably poor uni student these days :P

Not sure if i am being too much of a worry wart, but any help would be much appreciated

Cheers, Chris.

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Unless you plan on taking your engine out and the sump off, you'll have to settle for the factory oil pump..

Replace the water pump with a standard one. N1 will possibly cause cooling system problems due to the climate

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Standard New Water Pump

Nissan/Nismo timing belt

Genuine tensioner, idler, stud kit

New Nissan Harmonic balancer

Pump is entirely up to you.

N1 does flow more than the standard 25 pump.

Stronger gears may be a good idea. But I have found the inner gear to crank collar clearance on aftermarket gears to be excessive. Reimax included.

As you don't have a collar fitted it may be wise just to retain the standard pump.

A new harmonic balancer and avoiding rev limiter does wonders for your oil pumps life.

What ever you do, don't fit a "new" Nissan pump or new housing with aftermarket gears. Quality has dropped a lot on the Nissan pump and are prone to cracking.

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Standard water pumps tend to cavitate at high RPM at the track, N1 pump apparently has a plate on the back of the propellor to prevent this. You could just get a different pulley to underdrive the standard water pump.

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Unless you plan on taking your engine out and the sump off, you'll have to settle for the factory oil pump..

Replace the water pump with a standard one. N1 will possibly cause cooling system problems due to the climate

+1

Stock oil pump will be fine, you are not circuit racing nor seeing huge RPM so for a weekend driver it'll be fine.

If anything just upgrade the radiator IF you have cooling issues, which is doubtful. Good to go then really and save yourself some money

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Standard water pumps tend to cavitate at high RPM at the track, N1 pump apparently has a plate on the back of the propellor to prevent this. You could just get a different pulley to underdrive the standard water pump.

Yes, this is true. But i think the N1 pump is really suited to dedicated track cars that are really revving hard. Above 7,000RPM for long periods. The N1 pump actually pumps the water slower. At low RPM this can be an issue.

I myself am deciding whether to use my N1 water pump or a Brand new NEO water pump for my RB25. Dedicated track car, however it won't see above 7,000RPM often.

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I've used a N1 pump on all my motors (3 built ones), all of then predominately are street driven - with a decent radiator.

None have been a real issue even in peak hour on a 35 degree day. Never once saw any temps that were particularly worrysome as the key is having a decent tri-pass radiator rather than the cheap fleabay ones.

But for this thread/topic, certainly don't need to spend on a N1 water pump.

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No worries, std water and oil pump it is! :)

Although i think i might get a new balancer if i can source one cheap enough, 20 year old rubber is more than likely worn out....

Thanks a heap for the help guys, no matter how much you read old threads it just seems to make things more confusing sometimes :P

On another note, your opinion on ebc compared to manual controller? Using the ebc to hold the gate shut, does it make that much difference in response vs. a close spring rate in the gate to start with?

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EBC's are good.

The EBC will try and hold target boost a lot better than a manual valve.

You can also adjust the gain, to keep the gate shut longer to build boost quicker.

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Yeah thats what i thought, eboost is supposed to be pretty good isnt it

Could i get an ebc with gain after i get the car tuned? or when it comes on earlier will it effect the tune...?

Had found a balancer under $200 in the states but they wont ship to aus... so will be around $450 for a balancer, thinking i might just not worry ?

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EBC must be on the car when your tuning it.

Up to you on the balancer. It's a serviceable part just like your timing belt. Just no one replaces them. I would be replacing it. As you said the rubber is all cracked.

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Yeah thats what i thought, eboost is supposed to be pretty good isnt it

Could i get an ebc with gain after i get the car tuned? or when it comes on earlier will it effect the tune...?

Had found a balancer under $200 in the states but they wont ship to aus... so will be around $450 for a balancer, thinking i might just not worry ?

You should be able to get a new OEM harmonic balancer for about $100 less than that, even in Australia, including delivery.

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You should be able to get a new OEM harmonic balancer for about $100 less than that, even in Australia, including delivery.

Where from?

I got one from Kudos couple months ago for 4-450 and was about the cheapest I could find

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You should be able to get a new OEM harmonic balancer for about $100 less than that, even in Australia, including delivery.

I would also like to know this, ross nexus balancer is the same price as genuine nissan ones in australia. Having trouble getting anywhere in the usa to send me a balancer (They sell them around $200usd + postage) Nissan want $470!

Also need a 100xxx timing kit and r32 speedo cable, so anyone know where to get cheap genuine parts? :)

on another note, eboost street is on its way from the us of a :)

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Where from?

I got one from Kudos couple months ago for 4-450 and was about the cheapest I could find

Sorry guys! :/ My mistake.

I was referring to Kudo's, but I was thinking of the Neo balancer which they sell for only $340 or so!!! Must be the only Neo part that isnt more expensive than normal RB25DET stuff :)

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I would also like to know this, ross nexus balancer is the same price as genuine nissan ones in australia. Having trouble getting anywhere in the usa to send me a balancer (They sell them around $200usd + postage) Nissan want $470!

Also need a 100xxx timing kit and r32 speedo cable, so anyone know where to get cheap genuine parts? :)

on another note, eboost street is on its way from the us of a :)

I have a new speedo cable I bought for someone here but they didn't take it, if you want it. $110

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