Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I have a R33 GTR and a set of work XD9s 18 x 10 +18. the biggest widest and smallest offset XD9s you can get. But they are a bit to sunken for my liking.

I'm thinking of running spacers to make it flush.

But can you run staggered size spacers front to back? I know the tyre / running diameter must be the same, but can you stagger spacers?

As the rear could use a 10mm but the front could go 15mm to maybe 20mm?

Also can someone recommend good quality, safest spacers avaliable?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406862-gtr-and-spacers/
Share on other sites

i know what your saying, I've given up on offset on my R33 gtr , did have 10mm spaces just on the back, and didn't upset anything.

Don't think I'd go as far 20mm unless your going a bolt on, thats a lot of thread to lose in your wheel nut..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406862-gtr-and-spacers/#findComment-6484157
Share on other sites

dont be rude or anything, but what makes them so good?

There tired and tested brands....That are bolt on and not ebay/backyards jobs.

www.google.com - penly of reviews to read through just for peice of mind

Edited by sydking
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406862-gtr-and-spacers/#findComment-6484981
Share on other sites

There tired and tested brands....That are bolt on and not ebay/backyards jobs.

www.google.com - penly of reviews to read through just for peice of mind

funny someone said ebay,

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEOTECH-NISSAN-5-Stud-114-3-20mm-Bolt-Wheel-Spacers-/140822782086?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c9b12086

these are the ones I ran front and back on my R34 GTR V-SPEC II for 3 trackdays and nearly 10 months without an issue and they still look as good as the day I got them

only rolling diameter will upset the 4WD system, so you will be ok, ONLY GET BOLTON SPACERS and make sure they a torqued on propely

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406862-gtr-and-spacers/#findComment-6485441
Share on other sites

funny someone said ebay,

http://www.ebay.com....=item20c9b12086

these are the ones I ran front and back on my R34 GTR V-SPEC II for 3 trackdays and nearly 10 months without an issue and they still look as good as the day I got them

only rolling diameter will upset the 4WD system, so you will be ok, ONLY GET BOLTON SPACERS and make sure they a torqued on propely

any idea on the torque specs used? same as the stock lug nugs need?

When i was looking into spacers, Alot were sugesting its the speed of ratation that helps keep the wheels from falling off, Not soley on the nuts. Not sure in the truth in that.

Though, Tourqe the spacers, go for a drive, See if anything has come loose, then id be checking a week later or so just for peice of mind!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406862-gtr-and-spacers/#findComment-6486009
Share on other sites

any idea on the torque specs used? same as the stock lug nugs need? Yeah torque them to factory settings or a touch tighter, I can't remember the setting of hand but it is mentioned back a few posts

When i was looking into spacers, Alot were sugesting its the speed of ratation that helps keep the wheels from falling off, Not soley on the nuts. Not sure in the truth in that. there is some truth to this, but as wheels rotate in a different direction from side to side that would suggest that one side would tighten and the other would untighten, on my last truck it had right and left hand threads, one for each side for this reason, my current truck does not

Though, Torque the spacers, go for a drive, See if anything has come loose, then id be checking a week later or so just for piece of mind!! exactly what I was going to say

always use bolt on spacers not slip on, reason is then there is only one slip point ( the flat surface where hub and wheel meet ) the each set of studs have to secure not two

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406862-gtr-and-spacers/#findComment-6486879
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...