Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU

Might sound like a noob question, but anyone with a carbon fibre bootlid can hopefully help

Thinking of buying one for my R33, i havent actually felt how light they are. My main concern is will the hydrolics on the side that open it up. Will the pressure in these ower power the overall weight of the boot anf possible warp its shape when the boot is closed?

Again sorry if this uestion comes across as a bit noobie but just seeking some assistance here.

Thanks in advance guys and gals

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406927-carbon-fibre-boot/
Share on other sites

Not ADR approved but lol

Pure carbon boot (rare) on r34 no spoiler installed can be lifted with 1 finger , maybe 2 kilos tops

Thats bare no locks or brake light

Carbon covered fiberglass bare is about 7-8 kilos

Factory boot , damn heavy for the size lol

The strut rods will crack the fiberglass over time as theyre designed for steel and heavy , you can buy low pressure for carbon parts

The strut rods create a pivot point and the boot lid tries to fold where the rods stop , on r33 it wont be so bad like a bonnet strut is

Carbon is way stronger then steel But can be brittle and unless you source a pure carbon boot which cost 3 times as much the fiberglass inner part will be the failure point over time

But its really not a issue about closing and pushing it up the leverage is gone when its flat except where it screws in

If you cant find low pressure struts or someone to mod your current ones give me a pm

Mine are from usa

  • 2 weeks later...

Rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd be a good bloke and post in here. Recently I've sourced a Seibon carbon boot lid for my R33 to use at future track days. I want to use this boot in conjuction with a light weight spoiler, however would putting the stands onto the spoiler compromise the carbon structure? This cause damage to the lid?

I know this is a bit noobie but any help would be appreciated. Anyone have any advice on this?

Rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd be a good bloke and post in here. Recently I've sourced a Seibon carbon boot lid for my R33 to use at future track days. I want to use this boot in conjuction with a light weight spoiler, however would putting the stands onto the spoiler compromise the carbon structure? This cause damage to the lid?

I know this is a bit noobie but any help would be appreciated. Anyone have any advice on this?

depends on the spoiler , mounts , how often the boot will be opened , how the boot will be attached ( bolts and ???) and if its pure track car , i take it its pure carbon inside and out ? does it have a frame on the underside ? will you be using the boot latch /lock ? or ?

In most cases unless the wing is huge and pedistals small you could prob bolt it on with a carbon or alloy backing plate

Is it time attack high speeds or drift or ?

High speeds big wing would shatter the carbon over time if mounted wrong ! A true seibon for sure ?? the fit should be perfect unless the car was hit at one point in time

A few options exist shoot me a photo of wing /stands and underside of boot lid and answer questions above

Hey champ thanks for the reply. Yeah it's a genuine Seibon product, from what I can gather It does have an underside frame.

It will predominately be used for a mixture of drift and circuit. Don't think I'll use a lock with it either as I can't really see a need for it, and my impression is this would also only help to weaken the carbon.

The wing to be used in conjuction would be a Sard mini GT wing (1400mm).

Hey champ thanks for the reply. Yeah it's a genuine Seibon product, from what I can gather It does have an underside frame.

It will predominately be used for a mixture of drift and circuit. Don't think I'll use a lock with it either as I can't really see a need for it, and my impression is this would also only help to weaken the carbon.

The wing to be used in conjuction would be a Sard mini GT wing (1400mm).

Which wing stands you can get a few types ? link or photo ?

Carbon is stronger then steel but can be brittle around drilled holes, cuts and of course shatters on heavy impact , i can take a ball peen hammer to a carbon speaker box 2 layers thick and it wont mark or shatter it so its stronger then it looks

I would drill bolt holes with unibit titanium slowly and lightly sand the hole with 240-400 grit rolled paper to avoid sharp bits and weak points the bolts should slide thru not to loose or to tight fit

A backing plate must be used but it depends on where it sits on the ribs under it , you want to avoid bolting thru uneven surface , or mold a kevlar plate to back it with wide washers embeded into the epoxy where the nuts sit , if its flat i have kevlar plates made already if your interested in a couple ? you can bond those on with tiger bond , kevlar keeps the bolts from ripping thru and is impact resistant , wont shatter

The lock area is strong but could use a kevlar backer as well if used a lot to get to pumps etc

A pure race car never street used ?? street use you need to know carbon is defect if you care ? sharp wing endplates are too

if its pure race car your going to have to put a latch of somekind to hold it closed ? Quick release dzus fasteners are a good choice and made for carbon, fiberglass etc , ebay or aircraft parts sales , race shops sell them , use stainless or titanium not alloy version they can shear off in crash

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...