Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone i hopefully purchasing a Hybrid frount mount for ma R33 GTS-T soon so i would like to know how much piping would cost and maybe installation ?

Also if anyone could give me any places in melbourne that (would not try to rip me off) make the piping for me

Also how much power do u think a 800mm x 90mm frount mount would add ? kws ?

1.) buy the hybrid cooler piping with the cooler in a KIT from www.theintercoolerguy.com

it works out cheaper and you get a free oil catch can..

2.) if you are running stock boost, you will get NO extra kw from a new cooler. if you have boosted your car up a couple of psi already, and the cooler is a restriction at the moment, then with the new cooler and pipes, you might gain a handful of rwkw.

1.) buy the hybrid cooler piping with the cooler in a KIT from  www.theintercoolerguy.com

it works out cheaper and you get a free oil catch can..

2.) if you are running stock boost, you will get NO extra kw from a new cooler. if you have boosted your car up a couple of psi already, and the cooler is a restriction at the moment, then with the new cooler and pipes, you might gain a handful of rwkw.

thats cool i knew that i have to up the boost...but i dont need the kit cause i can get the actuallu intercooloer at cost price..so its much cheaper (secrect) all i need is the piping just wanting to know how much is the piping going to cost.

  • 6 months later...

I know I am digging up an old thread here but I am interesteed to know how you went with the hybrid FM.

I am looking into getting one and I wanna find some competitive prices and some feedback on the FM and piping.

Thnx.

1.) buy the hybrid cooler piping with the cooler in a KIT from  www.theintercoolerguy.com

it works out cheaper and you get a free oil catch can..

2.) if you are running stock boost, you will get NO extra kw from a new cooler. if you have boosted your car up a couple of psi already, and the cooler is a restriction at the moment, then with the new cooler and pipes, you might gain a handful of rwkw.

There are indeed gains to be had running an after market IC., regardless of std boost!!

without something to tune it like a safc you wont get much from a fmic but a huge flat spot and a spike at the top end :P

saves your turbo tho....because i heard stock ic restricts about 7psi compared to 2-3psi from an aftermarket one....

so your turbo doesnt have to spin as fast or as hot to get the same pressure....which the advantages from that are obvious....hence being about to up the boost a couple of psi....

my suggestion is to get a safc with your fmic to get the real advantages....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...