Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline R32 Missing, Acceleration Cuts Out, And Stalling.


LoveofCuteness
 Share

Recommended Posts

Skyline r32 20det missing and stalling, will be driving and acceleration cuts out for a few seconds then put foot back down and comes back, or like today for the first time won't come back and stalls, or stalls randomly at lights and has trouble starting again sometimes, has run great for 8 months, just started this a few days ago, seems like it's doing it more and don't like driving knowing I could break down at traffic lights if it decides to stall and not want to restart ...

AFM connection, coils, fuel pump or something? anyone had this prob? needa sort it asap

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it only happen when car is warmed up?

Sounds alot like when my old Bluebirds CAS was on it's last legs.

Cutting out at approx the same place daily on the way to work, ignition cutting out and kicking back in, stalling and not wanting to start for a couple of minutes etc.

New CAS, no problems.

Could also be AFM related but I'm leaning towards CAS.

Search for "Crank Angle Sensor" & see what comes up.

Edited by Not a Pulsar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is only when it's warm, I'll see in the morning as I need to get to uni, not looking forward to driving it at all was hoping it would at least be OK through till friday but it seems alot worse... may have to try hunt down a cas tomorrow, or find out if some one can confirm the problem.. thanks so much for the help at least now I have a likely cause for this... its very annoying!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Freaks you out when your'e hummin' along and suddenly everything stops.

Popping the bonnet at the lights isn't much fun either.

Goodluck, hope you get it sorted soon.

Oh and Welcome to SAU !

Edited by Not a Pulsar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea never had any problems up till now, have searched up symptons and there's been too many causes to figure it out.. like air flow meter connection, coils, cas good to get some peoples opinions here as well to match whats happening, wish my car could talk and just tell me wassup

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ECUtalk cable, its the most practical imo, comes with a USB connection and software !.

Dont go the chinese route and get a RS232 those things are so oldschool you need a laptop with a RS232 port,

if you dont then you need to get a USB-RS232 converter and thats just annoying you will end up

spending $$ to get it to work. ECUtalk best bet its like $80 and in with the times.

Its a poor mans Multi Functional Display.

Edited by starwarz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thought Id bring this thread back.

Tonight something weird happened. I was driving (just entered sydney from the central coast), slowed down for a round about, and got through it, then on the other side I applied about 5% throttle just to coast along, and it hung on to 2,000 rpm for at least 2/3 seconds I was then about to get off the throttle, and then it started to gain revs again.

Then I pull into the garage, park, I then jump out to have a sticky beak at any noises, and I can hear the car slightly dropping and picking up revs, power fc said about 200/300 rpm. And then it stalled, so I crank her up, she starts first go, and I let her idle, same thing again, stall after about 10 sec.

Hmmmmm... Im thinking my AFM is farked, or TPS. Am I on the right track? Im going to check tomorrow to see if its still doing it, if it is still misbehaving then Ill unplug the AFM's and see if it persists.

Or am I just chasing my tail and I should be looking at the CAS?

BTW, if my AFM's are f**ked then, Jez mah man, get that LINK ready

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine is still doing it, have taken it into get fixed and they did an oxygen sensor somewhere under manifold and the spark plugs which they thought fixed it but turns out once I got it back wasnt fixed so she's going back in.

@Hadouken Mine has started doing something similar to yours over the last 2 weeks which it wasn't initially doing once the missing started, when it's idling she can't keep the rev's stable, stays stable a little bit, rises, falls, rises, falls, and usually will end up stalling, sometimes quickly sometimes takes a bit. As you can imagine this is annoying as hell at traffic lights...

Oh well, gotta get through this week with her in this condition in the city while I'm at uni and take her back home to get back into the workshop and use a family vehicle while it gets fixed...

Edited by LoveofCuteness
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll chime in here with my experience. Motec is great if you have the money and know a good person to support you. They don't really offer retail support and the dealers make SFA margin on the product, so the business model is setup for you to be supported by a dealer. I'm lucky enough to know a guy who's ex Motec and very generous with his time and is a total boffin. In addition to that, I also use Brad Sherriff who's an absolute legend to work with. The downside to Motec is the software isn't very intuitive, pay to play, poor/limited online support and costly upgrades.  I've not owned an Emtron myself but a good friend runs a performance workshop in Melbourne who is an Emtron dealer. They won't be fitting any more to customer cars because of the poor level of knowledge within the Emtron support team and lack of ability to solve issues with the platform. Not to mention the circumstances around the establishment of the product and company in the first place. I've run Motec's since the old M8's back in the early 2000's so I'm certainly not without a bias but I look at it like this. Everyone acknowledges Motec as the best consumer grade product without spending mega dollars on Bosch Motorsport / Life Racing and so on. When you consider the real cost of your car (not what you tell your mrs) the cost difference between an Emtron and a Motec is tiny, why would you compromise over a few hundred dollars?
    • Closer to getting the shit box back on the road. That long hose, took 2 months to acquire. However the rest were all already to go same week I ordered them. For those playing at home, that long hose is for a RB25DE N/A motor, as they don't run a water/oil heat exchanger, the hoses underneath the plenum are much more elegant and not a maze of shit.
    • One thing you may be able to leverage is the fact that the R34 N/A has the same setup as a S15. The S15 also is a car that gets 350Z diff swapped, so they will also likely have this problem. The caveat of course is it's possible the dash is different between the R34 NA and the S15, but the subframe/sensors/axles/diff setup are the same. I can't remember now as it's been too long, but I don't generally think people need to swap dashes between the N/A dash and the turbo dash when they do things like change the gearbox out, turbo their car, manual swap it, it's just not something I've seen mentioned so this could be compatible.
×
×
  • Create New...