Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pics in my profile garage if u need proof 294.7rwhp until it leans out.

need bigger injectors cos im only running 6.5psi :yes:

look at mod pics

thanks to dean at WA automotive specialists in perth, and Jamie for his MEGASQUIRT ecu which did what a haltech couldnt

goes fkn hard :cheers:

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the ABS light is coming up on the dash and we cant figure out why. anyone got any ideas? doing the dyno power run tomorrow so will post the sheet up after work to keep you number guys happy lol. no matter the figure its a different animal than it was :yes: might have to plumb that screamer back in though its f@#!$n noisy!

also did anyone have a funny little aerial on the drivers side dash in their v35? i thought it was something to do with the toll roads but it was conected to lots of little modules and boxes one which contained a brand new brown nissan key that didnt fit my car????? does this have something to do with the abs maybe? beats me.

Just get a scanner and read the diagnostic code. That will lead you in the right direction. When you can achieve full boost very early, I'm not sure a screamer was the right choice. Mines plumbed.

the kit came with the screamer but ill weld it up tomorrow got plenty of tube and flanges handy anyway. not showing any codes thats why im confused. any ideas about that little antenna thingy? it was wired into a lot of different things

Think it might be to do with the security and GPS system in the pop up dash. Just leave it alone. Nothing to do with abs. Abs computer is different to motor ecu, so codes won't come up with the manual process I think. Needs compatible scanner. Otherwise don't worry about it.

Remember you have stock injectors before you go into heroic power attempts...make sure your tuner is monitoring knock.

let the missus drive last night cos i had a few. not a good idea lol whats the best cleaner to use on leather seats???

shes driven my mates boss270 and thought that was a fast car,until last nite never again methinks

interesting to read.that works out to 220kw @ wheels by my calculations.

for comparison, my HKS GTsupercharge'd V35 makes 234kw @ wheels at 7psi max boost.

so, basically similar results whether you go turbo or supercharged in terms of peak power. i wonder how the power deliveries would compare?

what injectors are you running currently?

i suspect your setup will be able to produce more peak power once you sort out the tuning/injectors and whatnot. i guess depends how much boost you want to push taking into account reliability..

its actually 237rwkw but whos counting.

stock injectors at the moment so im not gonna up the boost until i get bigger ones.

im making roughly 18hp for every pound of boost i add but ill sit on it for a while.

the kit was making 270kw@ wheels @9psi on the z it came off but that was a 6m/t

each to his own i guess

i like the fact i can change boost whenever i want and that noone over here has a turbo v (that i know of) while there are a few s/c on Vs and Zs

plus that turbo does whistle nicely

  • 2 weeks later...

hi all

car is runnin sweet apart from a couple of little issues

1 : cel,slip,and vdc lights wont turn off

i think its because the megasquirt runs the injectors now so gonna wire in some resistors to factory ecu to trick it. tried manual reset but that works until i turn car off again then lights come back once i restart. annoying!

2 : installed an Apexi turbo timer cos its a lazy mans tool so it suits me fine,but,it only seems to work if i drive a short distance. any more than 5kms it wont turn on. is there i setting i can adjust or just swap it for another? also annoying!

1000cc injectors for xmas then a run a 8psi

cheers

1: go and read the error codes and hope to hell they are not for Knock. That will tell you where to go- could be for too rich/ too lean, or misfire, or CAS AFM etc etc.

2: Useless Turbo timer is useless. Turbo is water cooled. As long as you not coming off a racetrack and turning it straight off, there is no point. Easiest thing to go - just don't flog it for the last 5 mins of your journey. Rip it out and sell it to some other bloke.

i also have CEL permanently on - dynoe'd it to make sure no knock/leaning etc when I purchased the car and all good. i cant remember the error code, but i beleive it is to do with the oxygen sensors in the cats - they are very sensitive and as soon as one reads a value outside the normal range (which happens all the time running supercharger with aftermarket ecu,larger injectors, etc) it activates the CEL.

i have also been told this by an official HKS approved worshops in australia who have seen this commonly on super- and turbo-charged VQ's.

not sure what the deal with your slip and vdc lights though..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...