Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha ha.. now i have your attention..

I now have a single piece tailshaft cos the old one died.

The original is two piece and i was wondering why?

It would cost more to make for Nissan so there must be a good reason for doing it.

Is there any disadvantage to having a 1 piece?

And yes its a big fat shaft :woot: with V8 unis.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407127-ive-got-a-big-shaft/
Share on other sites

It's simple....and has been answered many times before....a two piece shaft is stronger, less likely to buckle or bend in the centre due to it reaching critical speeds.

A one piece tail shaft of 50inches made from a tubular 3 inch x 3mm wall steel will go critical at approx 6500rpm or so. They can last a while without bending and the strong ones last the longest but the higher speed it rotates, the more chance it will have of buckling.

Two piece tail shafts have a bearing in the centre which means each part of the shaft can see well over 15,000rpm before bending.

I've binned more one piece tail shafts than I even care to remember. Unless they are made from aircraft alloy, are very thick or are made from carbon, they are rubbish.....I don't care how big the unis are

Exactly as Elite Racing said. It's all to do with natural (harmonic) frequency. The longer the shaft, the lower the harmonic frequency (which will happen to correspond with the RPM it will see on the road / track). Ford used to speed limit the Falcons to 180 because of the long tailshaft.

So top speed is limited.

Fast enough for a street car surely?

Its not like id want to go 180 down a country road, i used to ride sportbikes, so im over it.

If i want to put it on the track oneday, it would be Wakefield, i dont think it would get a high speed there.(rb20det)

Anyway thanks guys.

Obvious.. tubes are stronger. Basic physics.

Try laminating a tube with a different material so you get a matrix.

You know.... one material for stiffness, and one for handling the torque. Like a helicopter blade.

I bet F1 has this, probably since the 70's or 80's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...