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10 Line Pressure Solenoid Problem

Teiresias
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Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

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Posted

I have an R34 GTV.

I Crashed it back in feb, wen up the ass of an Astra. Her reo being higher then mine did a bit of damage.

So, ~4mnths later after getting parts and $$ back on the road.

Now, first day I got it back, the gearbox kicked like a mule. Changing gears in auto or tiptronic was rough as guts.

Couple days into it and it's much smoother but the A/T light was flashing on startup so I took it to a mechanic and he took the fault code off the ECU for me, the resulting code:

10 Line Pressure Solenoid Problem.

Now his advice was to take the car on the freeway and go through the gears, the logic being that the solenoid is "sticky" after having sat for so long, which was pretty much my idea too.

If that fails flush & change trans oil.

If that fails take out the solenoid and clean it.

Sound about right? Any advice? Any recommended guides for doing the change on the trans?

Thanks,

Teir.

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

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Posted

Drpping the sump won't do it. Take off a cooler pipe and run the engine till you have filled a 2 L container. Pour 2L of pref synthetic atf down the (auto) dipstick holder. Repeat until the new fluid comes out - you will need about 12L so probably buy a 20L container.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I had some major slipping and jolting with my auto at Sandown last week, it turned out the mesh filter in the sump was completely blocked. I dropped the sump, removed and cleaned the filter off the valve body, and refilled with fluid, with no issues since. Shame I didn't clean it when I put the new converter in two weeks ago, I wasted over a bottle of synthetic fluid.

I have noticed firmer changes after changing the fluid, the Dextron III that was originally in it from the rebuild must be thicker than the Nulon synthetic at operating temperature. The thinner fluid definitely firms up the shift by filling the accumulators quicker.

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

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  • Author
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Thanks heaps for the info guys.

Seems the light has stopped flashing.

Gear changing is medioka, still a bit rough and 'jolting' sounds like the right word.

@Scotty, How hard is it to take apart the sump and clean the filter? Or is it similar to changing the oil filter on the engine?

@KiwiRS4T, Wouldn't you use one of the products around that are supposed to flush the old fluid out of the gearbox instead of wasting so much good fluid? Or am I making things up? lol

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Thanks heaps for the info guys.

Seems the light has stopped flashing.

Gear changing is medioka, still a bit rough and 'jolting' sounds like the right word.

@Scotty, How hard is it to take apart the sump and clean the filter? Or is it similar to changing the oil filter on the engine?

@KiwiRS4T, Wouldn't you use one of the products around that are supposed to flush the old fluid out of the gearbox instead of wasting so much good fluid? Or am I making things up? lol

Its fairly easy to drop the sump. The filter is steel so no need to buy a new one just take it out and clean it. You're not wasting good fluid - that's how much is in there (mainly in the torque converter)!
Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

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Its fairly easy to drop the sump. The filter is steel so no need to buy a new one just take it out and clean it. You're not wasting good fluid - that's how much is in there (mainly in the torque converter)!

Awesome, ok.

Doesn't seem too bad, found a couple of good videos too on how to go about it,

So I'll use that as well.

What should I be using to clean the filter? Just a rag or any products? As well as the sump tray, cause I'll have to clean that as well when I take it off ey?

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

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Lastly, any recommendations for the fluid? The stuff mentioned in the thread seems like overkill for a N/A Auto R34. Especially if Kiwi reckons i need 20lt of it. The Castrol Transmax Z they're talking about is $75 for 4lt!

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

You should only use the nissan fluid if it has the stock clutches, mixing fluids isn't recommended and as said the torque converter will still have a few litres in it you cant get out.

I cleaned the filter with ethanol but petrol/kero would work well. Make sure you lay the filter bolts out in order, they will have to go back in the same hole they came out of.

Run a thin bead if silicone around the pan gasket when you reassemble and try not to drive it until it cures.

It would be a good idea to put down a plastic sheet first, you will make a mess.

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
  • Author
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You should only use the nissan fluid if it has the stock clutches, mixing fluids isn't recommended and as said the torque converter will still have a few litres in it you cant get out.

I cleaned the filter with ethanol but petrol/kero would work well. Make sure you lay the filter bolts out in order, they will have to go back in the same hole they came out of.

Run a thin bead if silicone around the pan gasket when you reassemble and try not to drive it until it cures.

It would be a good idea to put down a plastic sheet first, you will make a mess.

Well the car is second hand, so god knows what's in it, hence the need for a full flush. and silicone? Just the normal silicone you can get from the hardware store? ie gap filler?

Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

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Awesome. I'm on track now. I'll have to have a good look under the hood and spend some $ to get a couple things but I'm not too worried about doing it myself.

One last question, since I'm taking apart the transmission sump is it worth me cleaning the solenoids anyway? Are they accessible after taking the oil pan off? If they are I might as well do that too while I'm there.

  • 4 weeks later...
Teiresias Community Regular

Teiresias

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, a trip to the trans specialist and $800 later, I have 4 new solenoids, a new filter and obviously fluid. But still a flashing A/T light on the console on startup... Going to see him again on Monday to get him to read/clear the fault and see what happens, but any ideas?

He did "apparently" test the solenoids before replacing them...

Or is that now obviously bullshit?

And since they have been replaced, any ideas on what the problem could possibly be?

  • 2 weeks later...

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