Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have a TRUST/GREDDY INTERCOOLER single entry for sale

It owes me $2100 but need the cash will sell for $1700.

Dimensions 600x300x115. Comes with pipe work for the plenum side for a gtr.

Very Good condition NO FIN DAMAGE...just may need a clean lol

Urgent sale Must GO!!!

PM OR POST HERE

CHEERS

tony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40723-greddy-intercooler-kit/
Share on other sites

Hey it does require the front bar to be cut but not to much just so it clears the front and tanks...No big drama...

Let me know cheers

hmm i might have to disagree with you dough boy on this one....i think the mounts may be diffrent and you would need to drill and tap for the air temp sensor...although i could be wrong on that!BUMP its cheap

hmm i might have to disagree with you dough boy on this one....i think the mounts may be diffrent and you would need to drill and tap for the air temp sensor...although i could be wrong on that!BUMP its cheap

I've got an R34 GT-R intercooler here, and the same model that Tony's selling. Both fit on the same car using the same mounts, the Greddy one uses the center bolt where the hood latch is rather than the two side "prongs" on the tops of either side. There's a (covered) hole on the outlet for the temp sensor too... although there's no clear shot of the back side of the cooler here, it might not have the temp mount!

I have put a intercooler of this size on a mates car and no drilling etc is required...Only thing needed was to trim the front bar a little

A TINY bit of cutting of the front bar was required to fit this intercooler onto my R33 GTR, seriously it was more of a tidying up and shaping more-so than cutting for clearance. The amount of plastice removed from the front bar was absolutely minimal.

It also clears the factory BOV return pipe, so you can keep you stock GTR BOVs which I was very worried about :D:(

Straight bolt-in, and from memory the installation instruction manual came with pictured instructions for fitting to R32, R33 and R34 so it should fit all models (albeit using different mounts maybe)

Mine also had a temperature sensor hole on the exit end tank, which I covered up with the supplied blanking plate and gasket.

Awesome bit of kit, absolultely everything needed was included except for hose clamps, which I recommend you use uprated hose clamps from Triton or similar company.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...