Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I thought I would put up my findings from looking into fitting a short nose R200 LSD into a long nose diff, After looking on the net I didn't find all the info I was after

The centre will fit etc, the problem is one of the R30 axels are to short to engage the LSD on one side, to use the short nose axel flange setup you will compromise the oil seal as they are a different diameter by a few millimetres.

My conclusion was to make it work I would need to spend some time on the lathe modifying the shaft etc and cost as much as a aftermarket centre. I decided to go with a Quaife centre and cost the same amount with no stress.

Enjoy

Steve

Was this using mr30 trailing arms? or hr30?

I'm also assuming you're talking about a factory viscous LSD too?

Viscous LSD's are mostly old and worn out now anyway, so I wouldn't bother with one.

But I can't see the oil seal problem being a costly issue. Was it possible to use the short nose seal in the long nose housing, to match the short nose flanges? If not, then turning up a pair of new oil seal rings for the short nose flanges shouldn't cost much. My local machinists would charge $50 or less for that.

If you are using mr30 trailing arms you will need to change the flange on there to match the larger cv's, either 4 bolt hr30 or make a 5 or 6 bolt one to match short nose cv's. Then use 4 x inner cv's with the appropriate flange on either hr30, z31 or custom shafts.

My conclusion is that it is possible with a bit of mucking around but only worth it for the right LSD center, I wouldn't bother with a viscous for any diff.

I was playing with a R32 clutch type centre with Z31 shafts, it is posable but I decided it wasn't worth my time. I thought I might share the finding as I wasn't able to get this info on the net. I just like to do things the long way around first then invest in good parts when I have had enough.

i was going to do the conversion my self but ended up buying a Cusco mz lsd from import monster for 500 fits the factory r200 cv from a dr30

model LSD162, only thing u need to do i to buy some reduces for the crown wheel holes from 12mm to 10mm but thats easy

  • 3 months later...

Hey guys.

im doing a track day in my dr30 on sunday and my longnose r200 lsd has decided it wants to be 1 wheel drive! i have to pull it down tonight but i belive it is a nismo or cusco lsd (not fitted by me) if this is the case i naturally dont want to weld it! if its standard i may?? the reason im posting this here is that i have a ca18det shortnose lsd with shims complete and im trying to figure if there is someway i can use it? if the centres fit can i just weld the ca diff and use my r30 cv shafts? please give me some direction as diffs in general are far from my strong point!

as far as im aware every dr30 long nose is lsd, when mine started to peg one, i just replaced the original clutch packs, and added a extra four, theres a spacer in the hemi u remove to allow this, been working fine for a few years now, pre load was around 85 f/p by memory.

stwewart wilkins sells the upgraded ones btw

i looked at doing the same thing lots of stuffign around

ur better of going on import monster u can buy a Cusco Rs or MZ second hand center that fits factory R30 r200 cv for like $600 dleivered

ok so i took it apart tonight.. its a mechanical 2way unsure of brand?? the two outer most clutch plates on both sides have a concave bend to them which seemed odd (i was going to reassemble those plates the other way around..) other than that there appears to be no damage to it which is a little curious im lead to believe i may have the wrong oil in it (this all started when i changed the oil) anyone know what a mechanical 2 way should run?

and any other feed back and tips? anything i should look out for?

its not hard to set up a diff as long as u keep ur shins just like they came out and u dont stuff around the the pinion

So you have a VISCOUS LSD you have brought in from Japan for $600.00 and you're putting it in a long nose housing?????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...