Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What if your engine has between 180 and 190 psi??

We've got a Snap-On gauge and an ABW gauge. I'll give you $50 if you can show me 190psi on your engine on either one.

*sub clause* as long as it is an unopened engine haha

so next question apperantly my motor is supposed to rebuilt 10000klms ago so id take a uneducated guess and say it wasnt obviously but since they are so close wouldnt that lessen the chance of me having bad blowby?

It doesn't mean it's not built. Forged engines can have lower static compression due to the forging being made from a different material than the factory piston. They can expand more when at temp so the piston to bore clearance is more than the factory cast piston when they are cold and even when they are hot. Just not as much.

I would say get a second test done at a different place and compare the result. Definitely make sure the engine is up to temp before pulling it apart.

Also get them to do a wet test and a leak down test. This will help you determine where the compression loss is occurring.

You could have valve train losses rather than ring problems and no, that won't give you excessive blowby

Oh and I forgot to add that 50psi is nothing compared to the 1500-2000psi your combustion chamber sees at peak power and cylinder pressure.

Engine A might have 2000psi whereas Engine B might have 1850-1950psi due to his lower static result. Both cars will make within 5-10 HP of one another and potentially live just as long as one another.

thanks for explaining all that..

Im not sure i quite get my head around some of that , if the motor were down 50psi at 400rpm i would of thought thats a 30% loss of gas.. so at peak power it would be 30% still? so thats more like 1400psi instead of 2000psi which would be more than 5hp loss?

comparing my E85result on 16psi to some others on 25psi, seems like my compression could be the difference to me.. thats what i though anyway.

Edited by SliverS2

thanks for explaining all that..

Im not sure i quite get my head around some of that , if the motor were down 50psi at 400rpm i would of thought thats a 30% loss of gas.. so at peak power it would be 30% still? so thats more like 1400psi instead of 2000psi which would be more than 5hp loss?

comparing my E85result on 16psi to some others on 25psi, seems like my compression could be the difference to me.. thats what i though anyway.

A lot of people think that but in actual fact it's not the case.

Once the gases passing the ring/ring gap reach supersonic speed, none more can pass no matter how much more pressure is added. Gasses reach supersonic at fairly low engine RPM

There are a couple of different types of electronic tests. Pulse test and cranking speed test.

The pulse test measures variations in manifold pressure I am fairly sure. The pulses will usually be off if the cylinder is down on compression. The cranking speed test is done by monitoring cranking speed. A cylinder with reduced compression will have less resistance and therefore the engine will crank faster on that part of the cycle. I am fairly sure it's like a timing light with a scope type rpm counter. I have used neither of these methods and have only ever heard about them. From what I was told, they are pretty accurate also. I don't know about the pulse test as measuring the cylinder on the intake stroke is not really going to be terribly accurate as most of the rings made for modern engines are torsional so they act differently on the downward stroke. I don't know enough about it to argue with someone about its accuracy though lol

We use cranking speed fairly regularly when we suspect a dead engine. We don't use a tester though. All you do is unplug the CAS and crank it over. Listen to the note of each stroke. If you are down on one cylinder, you will hear it quite easily.

Healthy engine will be: da da da da da da

Unhealthy will be: da da DA da da da f**k!

We've got a Snap-On gauge and an ABW gauge. I'll give you $50 if you can show me 190psi on your engine on either one.

*sub clause* as long as it is an unopened engine haha

Hey mate Ive had 3 compression tests done at the same place with all results showing 180 to 190. Not sure what gauge they have used but I understand what your saying. It is a built 2.8 though. So does that make a difference?

Hey mate Ive had 3 compression tests done at the same place with all results showing 180 to 190. Not sure what gauge they have used but I understand what your saying. It is a built 2.8 though. So does that make a difference?

Yeah if you have had the engine built and it's higher comp ratio, that will improve the normal results usually. You would only need to go up to 9.5:1 at most to see figures like that.

Do you run standard head gasket or a spacer multi layer?

There are a couple of different types of electronic tests. Pulse test and cranking speed test.

The pulse test measures variations in manifold pressure I am fairly sure. The pulses will usually be off if the cylinder is down on compression. The cranking speed test is done by monitoring cranking speed. A cylinder with reduced compression will have less resistance and therefore the engine will crank faster on that part of the cycle. I am fairly sure it's like a timing light with a scope type rpm counter. I have used neither of these methods and have only ever heard about them. From what I was told, they are pretty accurate also. I don't know about the pulse test as measuring the cylinder on the intake stroke is not really going to be terribly accurate as most of the rings made for modern engines are torsional so they act differently on the downward stroke. I don't know enough about it to argue with someone about its accuracy though lol

cheers for the info.. the reason i asked is with RACQ they do an electronic compression test.. when i bought my 33 it showed 5 cylinders were 95% and 1 cylinder at 90%.. it was hard to find any info on how it was calculated.. but i assumed the engine was still quite healthy.. 3 years on and its still boosts fine, doesnt drink oil etc..

Yep bore scope.

We have one at the shop for just such occasions. It really is surprising how many people sell cars under false advertising.

We can also tell if you have forged rods and ARP studs inside by looking up the sump plug hole

  • 6 months later...

Yeah if you have had the engine built and it's higher comp ratio, that will improve the normal results usually. You would only need to go up to 9.5:1 at most to see figures like that.

Do you run standard head gasket or a spacer multi layer?

Dan,

Can you tell me if you believe using a multilayer metal head gasket say 1.3mm would impact on the results and how so?

For anyone interested in how my car has from I believe 'worn' over time - was never tuned for a couple of years.

I didn't know the test was meant to be done at temp so results are cold:

Cyl./psi

DATE: 27/05/2010

1/155

2/150

3/150

4/150

5/155

6/150

DATE: 29/09/2012

1/155

2/152

3/ 145

4/145

5/151

6/150? (forgot to jot down but was fine)

Not sure what may have happened to cyl. 3&4 but was certainly lower. No matter how many times I tested it wishing it was a bad read.

Was certainly giving the motor a hard time untuned though.

I feel a lot better now though after reading this thread regarding the 'dynamic' vs static result of how the engine will actually perform. The spread

Cyl. 1 and 3/4 seems high?

Edited by tranman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...