Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my car is running rich so im taking steps to try to stop this, I am looking for a O2 sensor and im not sure what i should go for there are many online starting from $70 and then i read somewhere that im better off getting a wideband o2 sensor with a guage so i can view it myself also to know the A/F ratio, i may plan to put a power fc in my car R33 so I cant decide weather i should put in a wideband with Guage (AEM) link below, NTK or NGK, Bosche or Australian Fuel Injection.

Kind of confused

this is the wideband aem one im looking at

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEM-30-4100-DIGITAL-WIDEBAND-UEGO-CONTROLLER-AIR-FUEL-RATIO-FULL-WARRANTY-/330682646907?_trksid=p4340.m8&_trkparms=algo%3DMW%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D12%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D1564762916054738581#shId

your car has a factory narrowband sensor

the stock ecu and PFC (and most ecu's) assume you have a stock narrow band sensor

you cant just remove it and install a wideband sensor and expect it to work

if you do install a wideband sensor as a narrow band replacement then you need to ensure the controller for the wideband sensor has narrowband output

this is usually a 0v to 1v output which the stock ECu will use and trick the stock ecu into thinking you have a narrowband 02 sensor

narrow is 0v to 1v

wide is 0v to 5v

a/f guages are useless on narrowband sensors and only meaningful on wideband sensors

stock ecu assumes (and pfc) narrowband and will only work on narrowband sensor (or fake narrowband input from wideband controller)

narrow band 02 ssensor should be $80

wideband 02 sensor form memory around $200

the stock narrowband sensor does die and it only has limited service life

from memory approx 100,000kms or so so yes, its a good idea to replace it

and you may yield some fuel economy as its the sole sensor responsible for fuel economy management

with a f**ked 02 narrow band sensor the stock ecu cant trim the fuel map on its own and its probably wasting fuel

note - dont confuse this with black smoke when you flog it on boost

when you flog it or floor it the stock 02 sensor is ignored and the ecu does all the work

the stock narrowband sensor is only used on light cruise / light throttle

when you open the throttle / floor it / on boost the ecu goes into "closed loop" and ignores the 02 sensor

from that auction page it wont work on the stock ecu (or PFC) because

All AEM digital gauges feature a 0-5v analog output for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system, such as the AEM EMS or FIC.

the stock ecu and PFC only run 0v to 1v analog input

so you need an wideband 02 sensor / controller with analogue output

Get the Innovate LC-1 with DB Gauge, can be had from eBay US to your doorstep for under $180.

Supports BOTH wide & narrowband.

Disconnect your stock O2, splice in the narrowband channel to your ECU. Save the wideband channel when you start stuffing about with tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...