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:O I couldn't find any where else to buy bc coilovers, I just bought them from just jap, which was 200 more than street to track :/

But it was still cheaper than my original plan of going with the pedders. I was looking at the tiens. But they are a bit out of my price range sadly.

I've been having a look at a couple of tutorials on how to change / install coilovers, does anyone know how difficult it really is? Or if they would recommend someone that hasn't done it before doing it?

Why don't you get Fulcrum Suspensions in Queensland to rebuild them? TEINs are much better than BCs ;)

Yeah gunna sell them so someone else can do that and enjoy them... I am making my suspension all black to suit my whole build, and the green stands out way top much lol

Yeah gunna sell them so someone else can do that and enjoy them... I am making my suspension all black to suit my whole build, and the green stands out way top much lol

Fk'n lawl! Fair call.

:O I couldn't find any where else to buy bc coilovers, I just bought them from just jap, which was 200 more than street to track :/

But it was still cheaper than my original plan of going with the pedders. I was looking at the tiens. But they are a bit out of my price range sadly.

I've been having a look at a couple of tutorials on how to change / install coilovers, does anyone know how difficult it really is? Or if they would recommend someone that hasn't done it before doing it?

It's piss easy mate. Just pulled mine back out so I can clean em up and remove helper springs before car goes back on the road. Took maybe an hourish by myself.

Rears:

1. Remove back seat(2 12mm bolts at the base either side, pull up and out then 2 on either corner below the top half)

2. Remove parcel shelf, pulls up and out.

3. Undo strut top nuts(2 12mm bolts either side under the parcel shelf)

4. Loosen off wheel nuts, jack up car under diff. Lower car onto stands.

5. Crack the lower strut nuts, 17mm. Will most likely require a decent length breaker or a breaker with a length of pipe over the end especially if they've never been removed before.

6. Pull bottom mount off hub(May need a screwdriver etc between hub and shock if it's tight). Shock will then drop down.

7. Install in reverse order.

Fronts

1. Open bonnet, undo strut top nuts, (2x 14mm either side)

2. Loosen wheel nuts, jack car up at front, (I usually use the engine crossmember or if the cars too low the tow hooks under the front bar) Lower onto stands.

3. Crack lower nuts, 17mm again. Will generally require similar force to the rears.

4. Loosen off same as rears.

5. Assemble in reverse order.

the first time you go to put them in will take you around 1.5 hours. some advice, on the fronts the urethane bush at the bottom has the longer side facing the upright (metal ring on longer side as well) and the torque specs are 75nm for the bottom bolts and 40nm for the tops. other than that follow the above steps, check your height before to know how far your going to lower it and it should be to hard at all :)

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Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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