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250rwkws using stock manifold internally gated as an easy bolt on option and been "responsive" is bit of a challenge. Billet SS1PU in .64 rear housing might be able to do it, but yet to be proved.

230rwkws region with the same requirement is possible and confirmed using the SS1 std version in .64 rear housing. Dyno reading is at the RB20det's dynosheet section.

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Best bet would be to ask around good workshops and or read th rb20 dyno thread mate..as for that I have a rb20 currently running th 350 hp region and have tried a few combos til I've stuck to th one I have now td06-20g. There is a lot of talk about these turbos on net and a few ppl running em on here with nice numbers but you will find 4k upwards (not to say it's flat as b4 that) is pretty much the point you will notice the rb20 making power on anything other then a small stock-ish type turbo..

Yer i dont want it to be a lag monster thats for sure. What turbo do u recomend to achieve 220kw -240kw with stock, still low mount on a rb20? And when does it start to spool up and make full boot?

The model No. is called ATR43SS1. This is pretty responsive turbo for a Rb20det motor, and made 225rwkws on 18psi of boost. By estimation it is capable of making up to 240rwkws mark on higher boost level as a bolton turbocharger.

For reference, result is at: Click Here

I think its possible to make an RB20 reasonably sporty as in torquey but it would be at the expense of higher end revs . Having a turbo thats "responsive" as in boosts readily and makes good torque is straighforward but not necessarily dirt cheap .

Generally turbos (properly sized ones) get the best transient response with ball bearing center sections because they have less innitial oil shear drag to overcome . The next thing is having enough turbine (and exhaust energy) to drive an adequately sized compressor wheel .

The compressor wheel is critical if you want good transient response because the greater its size and capacity the more turbine energy is needed to get it up to speed . I think you need to have set power goals and actually know what the figure feels like real world . The compressor needs to be sized to achieve that goal - and NO more . Manufacturers don't often spec OE turbos with excess capacity because they set their goals and size the turbocharger accordingly .

I think you need to look at the power number and compare that to the std engine output so you know by what factor the ask has gone up .

Basically the greater the number the greater the compromise and the more you lose where its needed most often . I think if you set the bar at no more than 220 you can have a good usable road engine thats a bit of fun as well . And it can be cheapish for a 37% increase ie 160-220 .

Personally I'd look at Garrett BB cartridges because they can be the basis of a Hi Flow using RB20 turbo housings . They are a bit shorter than the original Hitachis center section but the housings obviously suit the engine setup . Water and oil plumbing is different and needs some customisation but not too bad . Cartridges to look at can be from the SR spec GT2860R or possibly the larger BB spec GT28 turbine which is what HKS used for their RB spec GTSS turbo . Not the same wheels as the RB26 spec GTSS , bigger both sides . Anyway one of these two cartridges would get you ~ 200-210 and maybe 220 with the slightly larger trim compressor from the GT2860RS or HKS spec GT2530 which is very similar .

In a road car bottom end performance is more important 80% of the time so IMO its important to bias performance towards where its used most of the time . If you drove it flat out everywhere it'd be different but who does ?

If it were me and I had a standard R32 GTST , do these still exist ? , I'd do a mild turbo with the 34T SMIC and probably a 2 1/2" exhaust . Probably a cheap PFC and GTR pump and injectors maybe look into E85 if available . Plenty good enough for 200-220 and if I really wanted more I'd start with a bigger engined car . Possibly one cheat would have been to have found a GTS2500 NA and stuck all the GTST bits into that , and do a 25DET rebuild on the original block .

A .

If you are going to mess about with engines, the only thing that makes sense is 25Neo onto R33 gearbox into R32 (unless you want to spend more and make more rego hassles and go 3L). The Neo has about 4x the off idle torque of the RB20, starts making boost well before the 20 does, and just feels so much better to drive around. Every time you line up a car for sprint away from the lights, even in a fairly quick RB20 R32, you always have that nagging worry that you have to get the timing of the rev-clutch out-floor it just right or you're going to bog it down or light it up.....and get beaten off the line either way. With the Neo, even with just 5 psi, it is a doddle to just drive off at almost any level of idiotness and surf along on a wave of torque that no RB20 owner has ever experienced.

Even with a laggy turbo upgrade, a 25Neo would still feel better than any RB20 around town.

The model No. is called ATR43SS1. This is pretty responsive turbo for a Rb20det motor, and made 225rwkws on 18psi of boost. By estimation it is capable of making up to 240rwkws mark on higher boost level as a bolton turbocharger.

For reference, result is at: Click Here

How much is that turbo for a rb20?

Thats all well and good talking about a neo in a rb20, no doubt that they are a more torquey motor and such, but this is only my first skyline, and i still have a decent engine in it, no knocks or noises as of yet, so im going to put it though its paces than move onto another engine, thinking of a rb25, but for now im going to aim for 220kw for now if i get more that will be good, defantly thinking of a turbo from hypergear, they seem like turbos and people have given them good feedback

~ snip~

If it were me and I had a standard R32 GTST , do these still exist ? , I'd do a mild turbo with the 34T SMIC and probably a 2 1/2" exhaust . Probably a cheap PFC and GTR pump and injectors maybe look into E85 if available . Plenty good enough for 200-220 and if I really wanted more I'd start with a bigger engined car . Possibly one cheat would have been to have found a GTS2500 NA and stuck all the GTST bits into that , and do a 25DET rebuild on the original block .

A .

Is this an easy mod? I'm looking for around 180 - 200kw too from my HCR32, but don't fancy cutting up my vgc oem front bar, I also like the look of the stock gtst, nothing worse in my opinion than gtst with a gtr front bar and gtr rear wing.

nothing worse in my opinion than gtst with a gtr front bar and gtr rear wing.

Yer nothing worse than seeing that

Ha! I wouldn't have an R32 without GTR bonnet and grille. The GTSt bonnet drop front is just too Toyota Paseo/Hyundai Scoupe for my liking. The GTR was right, the GTSt was wrong. The best way to fix it is to, well, fix it.

The wing you can take or leave, but there is no arguing that the GTR wing looks better and works better (for what it's worth) than the GTSt wing. When seen in profile, the deeper front bar/lip provided by the GTR bumper needs the extra height of the GTR wing anyway (or no wing at all).

Toyota Paseo

2gwrj44.jpg

gtr bonnet and grille look good on a gtr and a gtr looks far superior than a gtst, but why spoil a clasic jap sports car by trying to make it look like something its not. A gtst looks good as it, I don't know maybe I'm just a purest or just weird :domokun:

The model No. is called ATR43SS1. This is pretty responsive turbo for a Rb20det motor, and made 225rwkws on 18psi of boost. By estimation it is capable of making up to 240rwkws mark on higher boost level as a bolton turbocharger.

For reference, result is at: Click Here

Stao, which has better response on a RB20, the atr43ss1 or a high flowed stock turbo?

I think the word you are looking for is purist. I also think you are wierd. :D

Hmmm English is my first language too. At least I don't drive a butchered up GTS-t. :bunny:

It's hardly butchered. It would take 1 hour to change it back.....that is if you think a steel bonnet is a better thing than an aluminium one, and you like shallow front bumpers.

Someone in Japan made the changes to my car before 1999, when the car was only 5 years old, hence much newer and arguably more valuable.

I think though that you have to realise that we're talking about R32s here, not Lambos. They are not really intrinsically more valuable in an "unbutchered" state. If you could find one completely stock it would command little different price than one with all the fruit. And the majority of them out there carry very questionable mods (such as cut bumper reo, holes bashed in the front rails, pod filters and whoosh/wank valves). And you'll find none of that on mine.

I suppose you're going to complain that the 25Neo I put in mine has ruined the basic purity of the R32 concept (which as I understand it is a complete lack of off boost torque coupled with unpleasant transition to wheelspin when the boost finally arrives). I'll take it the way I have it thankyou, and you can have your droppy leading edge bonnet and torqueless little engine.

I'm not making any assertions when it comes to performance modifications, merely stating that the 32 gtst looks good in its stock form, and it loses something when you start adding gtr bits, it looks a little strange without the fuller rear guards. I hope to own a stock BNR32 sooner rather than later, but i also want to keep the HCR32.

You don't by any chance have gtr badges on you car too?

...lol I didn't think so ;)

Getting back to turbos, has anyone put a borgwarner fsr 6258 on a RB20 yet? If I remember correctly someone there said the T2.5 would have to be cut off, and a T3 welded on to the turbine housing. But I would be interested to know if one of those NZ steampipe manifolds could be re-jiggered with a T2.5 flange? and use with the fsr?

Edited by Old Booster

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