Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a s2 rs4s and its knocking/rattling. ive checked it with a stethascope, and the noise is coming from the rear of the engine or bellhousing. i believe these have a dual mass flywheel and this is where the noise is coming from but looking for some clarification from anyone whos pulled a fly wheel out of one.

cheers.

Never seen a dual mass flywheel on an RB but then I haven't seen that many RB flywheels. I would think it very unlikely. On the other hand it is quite possible that someone has fitted a twin plate clutch if your engine has been heavily modified (they are not standard).

Or else you have a screw loose somewhere?!!

this is an oem replacement for a dual mass flywheel on an R34 GT-R

OEM equivalent clutch kit including DMF NSK-7725DMF

this is also for sale on SAU

from an R34 GT-R VSpec

Stock used

Used dual-mass flywheel now for sale - Will inspect condition and update. For now price = $250, may go up or down $50 depending on confirmed condition (will post pics)

so skylines definalty have them and i thought, being a NEO engine, with gtr gearbox(if that waht the awd box is), it may have the GTR dual mass flywheel. im not sure if the GTT had them, but its possible aswell.

Edited by OMY31T

Well I remain unconvinced. From my "research" the only Skyline to have a dual mass flywheel as OEM is the R34GTR with the 6 speed Getrag although aftermarket dmfs are around.

I have an R33GTR box and clutch in my Stagea and the clutch and flywheel came out of a low mileage R33GTR and its a solid flywheel. I'll bet quids that the RS4s came out with a solid flywheel.

mmmm i guess ill just have to pull it out, because its really the only explaination for the noise that i can come up with.... it doesnt sound like piston slap, and all of the cylinder compression are good, i thought it may have been the idler or tensioner pulley for the timing belt, but they have been checked and are fine. the car drives beautifully so its unlikely to be an internal bearing.....

this has really got me by the short and curlys, its all thats stopping me from sending the turbo off to hypergear, got the FMIC, fuel pump, z32afm, hard pipe intake, all i need is the turbo and ecu + tune, but im not going to send it off and power it up if its going to cause more problems...

As stated before, 6 speeds get dual mass flywheels a la 34gtr and s15

Quite likely to have copped a twin plate clutch in japland, extra likely if your clutch is quite firm

Disconnect either injectors or spark down the back end of the motor (one at a time) and check if the noise goes.

If it does it will more than likely be big end bearings, Happened to me on my R33 a few years back.

i think i answered my own question after further googling it seems the Rs4s from 97 onwards has a dual mass flywheel
:D

My RS4S is a 98 and as i have the flywheel out sitting next to the gearbox on the floor, i can tell u its definately NOT a dual mass flywheel. The noise is prob the throw out bearing. Mine was noisy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - My car has heaps of small dents, that definitely need filler but are you also sanding the area to 240 grit to fill it in with filler? I always thought you have to go to bare metal for filler to stick but that contradicts the point then that you can put filler on epoxy primer.  If you aren't going to bare metal, AND not putting epoxy primer how are you making the dent stick to the paint?
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
×
×
  • Create New...