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ecu can only support narrow band sensors

no one makes an aftermarket neo sensor so you have to take an r33 sensor and crimp your connector on (only difference is the plug)

you could replace it with a wideband if the wideband is able to give a simulated narrowband output

www.14point7.com have a nice one thats pretty reasonable and puts out narrowband

some only put out wideband (0-5v) but we need one that puts out 0-1V, check ebay also

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Getting a new oxy sensor this month to help things out...

Nfi what the coil packs are... (im a nub) and getting a hi flow cat to go with my 3" turbo back exhaust soon!

once again, nfi what these coil packs are... might hit up autobarn and get some new plugs this weekend

You 'll find out what the coil packs are when you go to change your plugs...each plug has a coil pack sitting on top of it. Look for scorch marks to indicate shorting and search for a number of ways to insulate your coil packs (or if you have money just buy some new ones if you still have the originals). Buy the BCPR6ES and they will be ready gapped at 0.8mm

whats the best way to get the O2 sensor out??.... I've tried and mine doesn't seem to want to budge D: .. doesn't help where its located and the fact my wrench is slightly too big :verymad:

O2sensor changed and still getting 17 litres per 100 or 350 per tank. Also changed spark plugs. Think I will be off to the tuners soon. Chasers. See whats going on. Has an Apexi safe which I have no idea how to use. May have stupid values programmed into it currently. Im going to change the boost controller from greddy profec b to hks evc s to eliminate big dash boost gauge and make easy to conceal. Return from pod to stock airbox.

I'm getting 600 km to the tank with no O2 sensor and an RB30!!

Actually a freak result. I had to drive down for a track day at the Manfeild Circuit near Palmerston North on Friday and for reasons too boring t relate I had to (a) stick rigidly to the 100km/hr speed limit and (b) drive economically so I did actually get just over 600km out of it (and that's without emptying the surge tank which holds another 4L) so I worked it out at close to 10.5L per 100 km. To do that I travelled on average between 95 and 100 km/hr and only floored it for about ten minutes the whole trip (couldn't resist overtaking a whole line of traffic caught behind a truck) . I think the RB30 is actually an advantage as I could drive in 5th gear virtually the whole time (it pulls well from 1500 rev/min in top) except when stopping in the towns along the way! I don't have an O2 sensor because Link controls it all.

17l/100km indicates something else is wrong

Seeing as you have a safc, get it on a dyno and ask them to work on the low end and economy

Give your AFM a clean

Check for split vac lines, loose hose clamps and loose intake piping

O2 sensors need to be replaced regularly but it is rarely the case that they make a significant difference to fuel consumption. The main problem is usually the right foot plus RBs run rich from stock which is why it is worth Nistuning even a fairly stock engine.

I've noticed we are the only people on earth who are aware of 02 sensors. My NGK one is about 40000km old now and the beast grows hungry. Thing is last time I changed it no change in consumption was noted. Many weeks passed by then one day it changed, could scarcely believe that she was actually trying to be efficient. Like the shifting sands of the desert they are.

I've had the automotive dream run of a lifetime with the 18 months of driving done in this car. Now it's time to give it a rest from daily work and getting worn out. I'm fixing up my old 1400 carburettor'd Sentra for the daily grind, now that will truly save fuel.

make sure to reset the ecu when you change it everyone

just disconnect the battery, pump the brake pedal and reconnect the battery again

what's the brake pedal pump for?? shouldnt disconnecting the battery be enough?

does battery disconnection reset tunes?

Pumping the brake pedal gets rid of any residual power still sitting in the system. ECU's in our cars are learning ecu's so it resets it back to the standard tune which after driving some it modifies to better suit your driving style, conditions etc.

Pumping the brake pedal gets rid of any residual power still sitting in the system. ECU's in our cars are learning ecu's so it resets it back to the standard tune which after driving some it modifies to better suit your driving style, conditions etc.

So therefore, I'd lose my NISTUNE?!

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