Jump to content
SAU Community

Xo2 Exhaust With Magnaflow X Pipe

thinktea
 Share

Recommended Posts

Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted

Heck no. The argument was that these replicas use materials of similar qualities. In brakes, suspension, wheels where pressure is constantly being applied, you would want the assurance that they aren't going to fail. In an exhaust system, this factor isbt as significant as they aren't load bearing items. The argument wasn't about design, it was about safety in build quality.

Thank you for saving me posting the same thing :P

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Not arguing the merits of "safety" as it is largely irrelevant with V35 exhausts, just put up a different perspective as to why a "real" exhaust should be considered instead of the "but I'll save some money" cheapo rip offs.

Just a different perspective guys, but feel free to use it as an excuse to get all lovey-duvy :P

t5iv Grand Master

t5iv

Posted
Posted

Not arguing the merits of "safety" as it is largely irrelevant with V35 exhausts, just put up a different perspective as to why a "real" exhaust should be considered instead of the "but I'll save some money" cheapo rip offs.

Just a different perspective guys, but feel free to use it as an excuse to get all lovey-duvy :P

Completely understand where you're coming from mate. If people continue to buy replicas, then the real companies won't have enough to spend on R&D. I'm a brand wh0re though - Car parts, suits, shoes, everything. Supporting R&D divisions (and single mums ;)) whole heartedly. :)

szymonsta Collaborator

szymonsta

Posted
Posted

I should probably add to the original vs knock off debate to say that the fitment on my XO2 exhaust was way off. Not just the tips mind you but both of the pipes had to be cut and welded to make it fit. Set me back $650 just for the rectification works...

moral of the story there would be, as i mentioned before, avoid knock off and crap brands (XO2/HKSreplica/BC/D2/JunBL/Nankang/ebay special/etc etc etc), pay a little bit extra and you get a product thats guaranteed to fit,look,sound and perform as expected. not only that but half the time by the time you pay to have the knockoff junk modified to fit you have spent as much as if you just got the proper stuff in the first place.

'do it once, do it right' springs to mind.

Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted

moral of the story there would be, as i mentioned before, avoid knock off and crap brands (XO2/HKSreplica/BC/D2/JunBL/Nankang/ebay special/etc etc etc), pay a little bit extra and you get a product thats guaranteed to fit,look,sound and perform as expected. not only that but half the time by the time you pay to have the knockoff junk modified to fit you have spent as much as if you just got the proper stuff in the first place.

'do it once, do it right' springs to mind.

Not always.. Motordyne Shockwave TDX V2 with ART pipes costs close to $2500 delivered and it has fitment issues (so i've heard from 2 blokes that have it) but i do get where you're coming from. Also i guess in the social side of things it would be better to tell your mates you have a "real HKS" exhaust or real anything for that matter. But in reality, it doesn't matter. Knock off's and genuine exhausts are that similar it's not worth paying double the money. I personally wouldn't give a f*ck telling people "yeah i've got a top speed HKS rep exhaust with a magnaflow x pipe" (for example) when that exhaust sounds SICK.

pv35gt8 Collaborator

pv35gt8

Posted
Posted

Motordyne is also American. Their version of 'bolt-on' requires cutting and welding equipment, and it doesn't matter what part you are talking about.

I believe the point that Iamhe77 was talking about was that the quality Japanese brand 'bolt-on' equipment is just that, bolts straight in with no modification required and the gains are there as the R & D has been done.

I can not tell you how much profanities came out from under my car when Iamhe77 & I fitted the Stillen exhaust to my V35.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Never to be forgotten mate and is why I would never put a US made exhaust on my car.

On another note and related to this, I looked into the Pathfinder cooling mod.

The pipe connection looks different in the ad so I asked if it was "bolt on with no modification required" as the ad said.

The reply from the US seller? "It does bolt straight on to the engine, but you will need to cut and weld the pipe".

Not quite the same as when the Japanese version of "bolt on".

(end result was we did our own. If any of you guys are interested, talk to Scotty-nm35 as he has made up a kit which works very, very well)

Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted (edited)

any time you do mods, you need to be prepared to be disappointed with some part of it. doesnt matter what car it is or how much youve paid for the luxury..

and other peoples perception of "perfect" may not be same as yours. exhausts for example, some people call loud ones perfect, others (eg: me) prefer quiet ones with a very slight note.

Edited by Deep Dish V35
  • 3 weeks later...
thinktea Community Regular

thinktea

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just an update to my original post. Got the Magnaflow x-pipe installed a couple of days ago. I expected the exhaust guys to remove the XO2 H pipe and reweld the Magnaflow x-pipe in its place but instead they kept my H pipe and replaced the 350GT extensions with the x-pipe instead. So, the system now runs as follows: headers > cats > y pipe> h pipe> resonators > x pipe> mufflers.

Not sure if it would have been any different but I can safely say that the 90% of the drone has been eliminated. The low notes have been preserved and if anything, have been refined by the x-pipe. So Sean, spot on as advised by your Facebook buddies.

Will be aiming to get a decent sound recording soon. Will post it up once that's done.

Cheers guys.

Edited by thinktea
thinktea Community Regular

thinktea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can't wait to hear it keith.

Sounds like money well spent.

Meet up and drive up together on friday?

Probably easier to drive back down the Princes Highway after the meet cuz of different start times :-)

  • 7 months later...
VQ35DE Enthusiast

VQ35DE

Posted
Posted

Just an update to my original post. Got the Magnaflow x-pipe installed a couple of days ago. I expected the exhaust guys to remove the XO2 H pipe and reweld the Magnaflow x-pipe in its place but instead they kept my H pipe and replaced the 350GT extensions with the x-pipe instead. So, the system now runs as follows: headers > cats > y pipe> h pipe> resonators > x pipe> mufflers.

Not sure if it would have been any different but I can safely say that the 90% of the drone has been eliminated. The low notes have been preserved and if anything, have been refined by the x-pipe. So Sean, spot on as advised by your Facebook buddies.

Will be aiming to get a decent sound recording soon. Will post it up once that's done.

Cheers guys.

Hi mate, where did you get this done? Revzone?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...